I hate to hear that, I hope all works out for you.
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10 mm
- Thread starter scatter15
- Start date
I try to stay with as few powders as reasonbally possible to simplify things.
I use either Accurate #5 or HS-6 for the 10 MM.
both provide accurate loads and plenty of speed and plenty of energy in the 10 MM.
I also use the 2 listed powders in 38 Super, 9 MM, 45 acp. with good results.
I use either Accurate #5 or HS-6 for the 10 MM.
both provide accurate loads and plenty of speed and plenty of energy in the 10 MM.
I also use the 2 listed powders in 38 Super, 9 MM, 45 acp. with good results.
Case head raptures sending 37,500 psi down the mag well splitting the mag well and destroying the magazine its happens a lot. And if you are shooting some of the SwampFox Or Underwood loads the psi is even greater than that.
I can see it damaging the spring, but not blowing a gun apart. Besides, all 37,500 isn't going down, some of it still goes out the barrel. I suppose if you have a plastic gun, maybe it can do more damage. Now if you have an overcharge, then things turn out very differently.
Rosewood
Rosewood
Totally agree that not all 37,500 is going down the mag well but enough to destroy a polymer gun. Usually blows the mag out and the grips off the steel frame guns. Like I said in a earlier post the Glocks fatigue the brass more rapidly with the unsupported chamber. Over Charged loads play a larger part in guns blowing up (barrels and slides splitting). 10mm guys have a tendency to push that cartridge and thing go south a lot quicker with weak brass. Everyone wants the original power of the 10mm I know I do but sum will not watch the pressure signs close enough and push through sizing there brass which helps the Glock smile but leaves the brass weaker in that spot. There are too many 10mm recipes on the internet that are not safe and when Underwood Ammo was loading true 10mm loads it said on the box not safe for Glocks and other firearms without fully supported chambers. Underwood Ammo has dropped the velocities on there 10mm loads now they are safe for the Glocks. The original 10mm load of 220gr bullet @ 1400fps was a gun breaker with a steady diet of them. I love my 10mm enjoy shooting it and knowing the power the bullet delivers out of a semi auto handgun. The original poster said he was new to reloading for the 10mm and I was just wanting him to know he could destroy his Glock in a hurry if not careful. If you want go to 10mmFirearms.com and read the post where guys have destroyed their pistols and you can see more Glocks have been destroyed than any other firearm chambered for the 10mm. I've enjoyed the conservation we have had.
I can assure you fella’s that if a forty ruptures in an HK USP, it can sting your hand, rupture your frame from the slide rail all the way down the grip, blow the mag apart, drop the unfired rounds on the floor, and damage the extractor.
I had the unfortunate experience of being the shooter when it happened.
10mm is less likely to rupture than a forty, due to the extra thick case web of the ten.
I had the unfortunate experience of being the shooter when it happened.
10mm is less likely to rupture than a forty, due to the extra thick case web of the ten.
Can't remember which gun it was, but I had a 40 rupture and it didn't tear anything up but the case. Blew out right where a glock smile would be. Wasn' a glock as I do not own one. Was either a s&w sigma or sig 229.
Had a 10mm blow out in an auto ordnance 10mm 1911 that probably been throated too much at the glock smile and it did indeed damage the spring, but that was it. It was a hot load that i hunt with in my para which is fully supported. We no longer shoot hot loads in the auto ordnance. I do believe that the brass in both case had been reloaded multiple times though.
Had a 10mm blow out in an auto ordnance 10mm 1911 that probably been throated too much at the glock smile and it did indeed damage the spring, but that was it. It was a hot load that i hunt with in my para which is fully supported. We no longer shoot hot loads in the auto ordnance. I do believe that the brass in both case had been reloaded multiple times though.
I still question whether those loads that tore up the gun were over pressure. Anyone loading could make an error. Unfortunately, there is no way to ever know. You can't weigh the powder charge after shooting. The true cause is speculation unless u intentionally overcharged one.
Longshot and 800x. Both good for full power 10mm loads. If you want a .44 magnum, buy that instead of overcharging a 10mm. Save hot 10mm loads for newer brass.
Thank You all for info on this
