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12 Questions! Proud new 7.3 owner needs your 4x4 awesomeness advice!

Pretty sure they have a trans cooler from the factory. I know ours did, but it was 2005.
2005 was the 6.0 engine and different trans totally different beast.

If you want to keep the engine stock, the s&b and mbrp or similiar for the exhaust.

You said no wheels, but looking at your pics, it appears you already have some el cheapos on there. Many aftermarket rims do not have the proper load rating to do the big towing of these diesels. If you really are opposed to rims, atleast look at some take off oem rims on craigslist, there are many on there pretty cheap that will give you proper ratings.

I did airbags for my previous tow vehicle and they are awesome. They dont hinder the ride when you dont need them, but work great when you do. The level kit you listed said it will firm the ride up, just be aware.

If you add a massive bumper with a winch, the front end will sag more under the weight as well so be prepared for that.

At 19 years old and 205k miles, your going to be investing a good bit of money in suspension and steering parts plus any other maintenance items required to travel all over the country. I wo7ld just make sure all is well, get some high quality wheels and tires then just enjoy the ride.

Lastley if you want to fix the front, look at an 05 conversion. They look much better and should be less money than a ranch hand and a winch, just a thought. Judging from your post you realistically wont need all that.
 
Buy a spare CPS and carry it in the glove box with a wrench. They're a known issue and prone to giving up at the most inopportune times, which leaves you stranded. Simple fix to swap out if you have one with you. Google it, lots of info.

Fuel additives; low-sulfur diesel doesn't have the lubricating properties of the older diesel, a good fuel additive like "Diesel Kleen" will help with mileage and quiet down the injector cackle.

Pay attention to coolant and SCA; 7.3s are prone to cavitation issues and need the proper coolant with additives.

Fuel bowl drain, yellow lever on back of fuel bowl, is prone to leaking. Check it periodically.

Windshields are prone to leaking on that body style, "wet cat" smell and damp floor will clue you in, hard to nail down if you don't know about it.

Ford has a "severe duty" filter box & kit to increase available air with a bigger filter, fairly inexpensive as far as filter kits and works great.

Front hubs/unit bearings are a POS, as are ball joints. Dynatrac and SpynTec make a conversion kit for hubs/unit bearings, I've used the SpynTec and loved it. Pricey but eliminates a weak link. Ball joints, just expect to change them, big tires kill them faster.

Steering gear box is prone to wearing in center giving vague, wandering feel to steering. Look at a Red Head steering box if you need to change it.

I'll second the other posts on transmission, it can't handle heat. Tow with OD off if heavy, feels like it's lugging or starts hunting gears. Use temp gauge. Look into a John Wood valve body if you want a simple but effective upgrade to a stock trans.

Plug it in when it's below about 40, much easier on starter, batteries, and the neighbors when it's cold out. Doesn't have to stay plugged in all night, usually 30 minutes will do it but either way, it'll be happier if you do.

Stay on top of filters and fluids, unless running a bypass filter or lift pump kit, keep your service interval short. Filters are cheap compared to injectors and engines. Don't use cheap filters! I stick with Motorcraft, AC Delco, CAT, etc.

Love the RanchHand bumpers, have had one on a K2500 for about 20 years, paid for itself many times saving me from suicidal deer. They're heavy, but bomb proof.

Research the ".25 cent mod" for 7.3s, deals with UVCH, another known issue.

Love the 7.3s, taken care of, you'll have a great rig. Not a tire smoking 1,000 ft lb engine, but will chug along all day and be happy doing it. Keep speed below 70 and drive like an egg is under the throttle and you can get decent mileage as well.
Dang man, Great info! Thanks!!!
 
Fuel additives; low-sulfur diesel doesn't have the lubricating properties of the older diesel, a good fuel additive like "Diesel Kleen" will help with mileage and quiet down the injector cackle.

Diesel Kleen is good (silver/gray bottle at Walmart). Dose per instructions. Also, add a 16 oz. bottle (or two) of SuperTech TCW3 outboard motor oil to each tank. Cheap way to add back lubricity to the ultra low sulfur diesel that we have to deal with nowadays.
 
2 stroke oil as an additive works to restore lubricity to the ULSD. I use 1 qt/30 gallons. There have been lab tests on this to back up its effectiveness (search diesel truck forums, many posts ).

Carry spare bypass/return lines and bits (the low pressure lines attached to your injectors), it just may be what you need to make it home one weekend.

That engine has a cavitation problem in the cooling system that will eat a pin hole in the cylinder wall (#7 or #8, do not remember which one). We had 2 do this and it requires a rebuild to repair. It causes the cylinder to fill with water after it is shutdown following an hour or more of running. Ford has a coolant additive to help stop this. Our trucks were high mileage and run several hundred miles 5 days a week.

Take of your glowplugs, and only replace with genuine Ford if needed.
 
And put a boost gauge and a pyrometer in it, esp if you are going to tow. Mine cost less than 100 bucks for the pair.
 
I always used 2 stroke oil in every tank. My tank was 38 gal so I used 1 quart per fill up. Ran much better too.

I still have a hyperchips 7.3 programmer if anyone needs one. Simple tame programmer.
 
That's one of few vehicles I would consider putting a mild tune on and it be worth while.

285/75/16 will look good without the need for modding suspension or rob power. 295s may fit, but the center of the tire will wear fast on factory rims(never mind, just noticed your rims are aftermarket).
 
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