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15 minute Handyman job

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Let me set this up for you:

I just had a plumber come out to change a pressure relief valve on a water heater. He wanted to charge $200 and it only takes 15 minutes. I'm on long term disability and can't afford that.

If somebody were in the Lawrenceville / Grayson area, I could afford $50 and supply the parts. You don't have to bend over, got into dark spaces or get dirty.
 
I wish I knew how to fix it for you, I'd do it for free.

Shut off cold water to heater or house as necessary.You need a piece of hose to drain the heater below the level of the T&P valve, which you do after shutting off power to the WH.

Once drained, spin the old valve off with a pipe wrench, put some Teflon paste on new valve and spin it on. Open a hot water faucet (to bleed air).Turn water back on and fill the WH. Check for leaks after bleeding air and closing faucet. Power heater back up.

These are generic steps to replace the T&P valve, specific instructions come with new valve and are available via a search on the web.

If you were local, I'd do it for you, providing you feed me lunch. :thumb:
 
Sounds like OP may have a pressure problem due to no expansion tank or pressure relief valve necessitated by check valves on water supply lines mandated 20 years ago.
 
Some time it's the water regulator pressure valve and the pressure is high enough to trip your hot water heater valve. Might want to go outside and check how much pressure is coming out of one of your water spigots before replacing the valve on the hot water heater.
 
I've already had the pressure tested. It was only 45 PSI.

When my gas bill tripled, I had to look at the water heater. And the pressure relief valve has a piece of CPVC attached that runs into the drain alongside the washing machine hose and empties into the drain. That CPVC was hot to the touch and when I lifted it up there was a drip going into the drain.

Apparently the pressure relief valves go bad. My gas provider told me what to look for and sure enough, the water heater was off and had been for some time, but the CPVC pipe leading off it was hot and there was a leak from it going into the drain.
 
I've already had the pressure tested. It was only 45 PSI.

When my gas bill tripled, I had to look at the water heater. And the pressure relief valve has a piece of CPVC attached that runs into the drain alongside the washing machine hose and empties into the drain. That CPVC was hot to the touch and when I lifted it up there was a drip going into the drain.

Apparently the pressure relief valves go bad. My gas provider told me what to look for and sure enough, the water heater was off and had been for some time, but the CPVC pipe leading off it was hot and there was a leak from it going into the drain.


How old is your heater?
 
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