1911 sear spring - has anyone ever used one of these . . . ?

[SchmittZoid]

I'll post up my results in the morning. Heading to bed, work comes early tomorrow.

 

[SchmittZoid]

Well now, lookie lookie . . . . . .

The new Cylinder & Slide Light Pull Sear Spring dropped the trigger pull from nearly 6 lbs to a tad over 3.5 lbs. That is a LOT cheaper than a $75 to $125 trigger job by a local pistol smiff . . . . .

I need to learn all the other techniques to reduce this a bit, but this one seemed to be the least invasive and required no additional toolage or jigs . . . . .

My results.

 

[sparked1]

3.5-4.0lb is right where you want it. Any lighter and you lose that tactile feel when live firing it. It feels great when dry-firing, but feels different when actually shooting it. I like mine right around 3.5lb. There is more to a decent trigger on a 1911 than just pull weight though. Pre-travel, over travel, clean break, reset, etc. But sometimes you do get lucky and just reducing the weight may get you the desired result.

 

[SchmittZoid]

3.5-4.0lb is right where you want it. Any lighter and you lose that tactile feel when live firing it. It feels great when dry-firing, but feels different when actually shooting it. I like mine right around 3.5lb. There is more to a decent trigger on a 1911 than just pull weight though. Pre-travel, over travel, clean break, reset, etc. But sometimes you do get lucky and just reducing the weight may get you the desired result.

There is definitely a huge improvement in the pull, but there is still a bit of "creep" in the action and a tiny bit of what folks would call "grit." If I could get that cleaned up, and shorten the pull by about 1/32", I think it would be real close. I think the "creep" I am talking about is the pre-travel you mention. The break is clean, but you can feel a bit of "something" in the pre-travel. The reset is a tad long as well. I am thinking these are related?

Take it too far, and it's all new ignition parts from what I hear. Baby steps, right?

 

[sparked1]

There is definitely a huge improvement in the pull, but there is still a bit of "creep" in the action and a tiny bit of what folks would call "grit." If I could get that cleaned up, and shorten the pull by about 1/32", I think it would be real close. I think the "creep" I am talking about is the pre-travel you mention. The break is clean, but you can feel a bit of "something" in the pre-travel. The reset is a tad long as well. I am thinking these are related?

Take it too far, and it's all new ignition parts from what I hear. Baby steps, right?

The creep is pre-travel and is normal. You want some pre-travel in there and one of the leaf springs controls the resistance of that pre-travel. The reset is affected by over-travel. You can't really adjust that unless your trigger has an adjustment screw for it. The grit is likely from the trigger shoe sliding through the frame. You'll want to clean up and polish the frame channels and trigger shoe to address that. It's fun learning this trigger system. It's amazingly simple in design and can be highly tuned to your liking.

 

[jeep78]

Does the trigger drop freely into the bare frame? It should have no resistance in it's normal travel range (bare frame, no mag catch, spring, mag, etc).

Clean that up and your grit will be gone.

As mentioned, your pull is where you want it now.

 

[EMC45]

I'm impressed with the drop in measured pull weight.

 

[Old_School]

There is definitely a huge improvement in the pull, but there is still a bit of "creep" in the action and a tiny bit of what folks would call "grit." If I could get that cleaned up, and shorten the pull by about 1/32", I think it would be real close. I think the "creep" I am talking about is the pre-travel you mention. The break is clean, but you can feel a bit of "something" in the pre-travel. The reset is a tad long as well. I am thinking these are related?

Take it too far, and it's all new ignition parts from what I hear. Baby steps, right?

I have a Power Custom stoning jig I'll sell you.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[SchmittZoid]

The creep is pre-travel and is normal. You want some pre-travel in there and one of the leaf springs controls the resistance of that pre-travel. The reset is affected by over-travel. You can't really adjust that unless your trigger has an adjustment screw for it. The grit is likely from the trigger shoe sliding through the frame. You'll want to clean up and polish the frame channels and trigger shoe to address that. It's fun learning this trigger system. It's amazingly simple in design and can be highly tuned to your liking.

Does the trigger drop freely into the bare frame? It should have no resistance in it's normal travel range (bare frame, no mag catch, spring, mag, etc).

Clean that up and your grit will be gone.

As mentioned, your pull is where you want it now.

Thanks guys, you da bomb . . .

I'll put away the Dremel and framing hammer for a while then.

 

[SchmittZoid]

I have a Power Custom stoning jig I'll sell you.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

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