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2008 ford escape (V-6) problems.

If a scanner was used, it should flag which cylinder had a miss fire and shoot a code. As far as a limp home mode, not sure, if you were running on five cylinders, might not get it over 40.
Either way with a code you can figure out what went wrong, just a though anything can go wrong with electronics and not be the shops fault. Could be a coil or plug, or plug wire that just decided to go.
 
Yesterday wife called and said a/c started blowing hot air, check engine light came on, and about a minute later fuel pump reset light came on. She pulled over and called me (engine never stopped running, and never overheated). I told her to nurse it home (about 11 miles). When she started driving home the fuel pump reset light went out, but the check engine light stayed on. Made it home, but she said the car would not run over 40mph. This vehicle had a complete tune up a few days ago, and this is the first time she has driven it, other than back to the house from the mechanic's shop. Before I take it back I would appreciate any information you folks may have. I noticed when the engine was running it sounded like a noise was coming from the air filter. As soon as it gets light I will take a look at the filter. She drove from Walnut Grove to Conyers, and was headed back when this happened, so I would guess she had put on about 25 miles with no problems before this happened. thanks jw
loose air box... mas disconnected dirty or broken MAS...BAD OIL PRESSURE SENDER...this will do all that happened and is the cheapest fix..test oil pressure..oil in pan
 
lol. The one that stumped me is the fuel pump reset light. I know where the reset switch is, but should not need resetting if it is still running. (or maybe that was why it would not run over 40 mph). I would think the car would not run if the fuel pump needed reset. Yea, I will have him check it out, but was curious if it happened to anyone else. tks
OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
 
loose air box... mas disconnected dirty or broken MAS...BAD OIL PRESSURE SENDER...this will do all that happened and is the cheapest fix..test oil pressure..oil in pan
Thanks Brad. Are these problems something that the diagnostic test will show a code for? The diagnostic testing unit he has is not the cheap Auto Zone type, it is a pretty expensive unit, and he receives updates every year to keep it current. Not sure why it would take so long to figure out the problem.
 
If a scanner was used, it should flag which cylinder had a miss fire and shoot a code. As far as a limp home mode, not sure, if you were running on five cylinders, might not get it over 40.
Either way with a code you can figure out what went wrong, just a though anything can go wrong with electronics and not be the shops fault. Could be a coil or plug, or plug wire that just decided to go.
Thanks. Yesterday when I was told the diagnostic test showed a bad coil, and now they had to figure out which one it was, I was kind of surprised that the code would not show which one it was. When they tuned it up they did have to replace one of the coils that was bad, so how did they know which one it was unless the scanner told them? Sounds like I may need a new mechanic.
 
Thanks Brad. Are these problems something that the diagnostic test will show a code for? The diagnostic testing unit he has is not the cheap Auto Zone type, it is a pretty expensive unit, and he receives updates every year to keep it current. Not sure why it would take so long to figure out the problem.
if it has over 80k just replace( oil sending unit) it..its inexpensive and good insurance. the oil sending unit interlocks with the ECM to tell the fuel injectors to keep pulsing. when the pressure sender shows low or signal is low it will not allow the computer to go full pulse range on the injectors ( to protect the motor if oil is low) same as the fuel rail regulator.( check vacuum connection on fuel rail regulator as this can mimic the same problem. if someone was poking around on a tune up they may have hit the vacuum tube or if a small split in rubber connector is evident. this is a common problem with vacuum tubes and a keen eye can pick it out..be patient and look things over very well and you just might find what your looking for..if it is a split a temporary fix would be some RTV on split and then locate a new connector. The diagnostic ODB logger may only say low signal or pressure regulator signal low.. any of these type codes will lead you back to the problem or should anyway.
 
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