300 Win Mag long range

[triharder72]

Brand new to reloading. Planning to start reloading 300WM to shoot 1 mile out of a Rem 700 5r.

Will be going single stage with a Lyman Spartan. I have read that the Redding competition dies are best to get the consistency and accuracy that I am looking for.

I appreciate the shooter and rifle requirements to achieve success afeat. Would appreciate insight from anyone specifically loading this caliber for long distance.

 

[REDX]

I love Redding Comp dies, and have used them on everything from 223 to 338 Lapua that was used to go out to 2160yrds

Sierra match kings 190 or greater, Bergers if you can afford them. H1000 or Retumbo powder. Magnum Match primers (CCI or Federal) I will actually be doing some load development on a 300 early next week on a 1:8 twist barrel and would be happy to give you some data.

The two 20" guns I recently built for customers are shooting factory 190s out to a mile no problem

 

[watchingtrace]

The 300 win/208-215 gr in 10 twist is good/practical. The 215 hyb 300 Norma is mind blowing

 

[REDX]

I'm going to experiment on a 1:8 twist next week

 

[ngcsugrad09]

I'd even pass on the 190s anymore..

Take a look at the following:
Berger 215gr/230gr Hybrids
Hornady 208gr/220gr ELD Match
Lapua 220gr Scenar-L
Sierra 210gr/220gr Match Kings

Retumbo and H1000 work well, and I've had very good luck with RL33 as well. Don't skimp on the brass either if you're looking for a long range setup. Norma/Nosler brass works very well.

I generally use Redding Type S dies and Forster BR seaters (saves a few bucks over the Redding).

Remember follow through matters a lot more with the magnums than your short action guns.

 

[GAgunLAWbooklet]

One mile? 1,760 yards ?? !!

Good luck.

As for reloading, I'd look for those tips and tricks that benchrest shooters use for great consistency in their reloads.


* Buy quality brass, from companies known to produce good brass cases with consistent wall thickness and the neck concentric with the main body of the case.

* Get a bunch of the same kind of brass cases- same brand, same model, and hopefully the same lot number or same year of production.
If you'll be starting with factory made ammo and saving your own empties, buy at least 200 rounds at a time so you'll have 200 empty cases all alike when you're done.

* Sort your cases by weight (empty) and and volume (before you deprime them) (how many grams or grains of distilled water they hold).

* Get a PREMIUM powder measure, the kind popular with benchrest shooters or 1000 yard highpower rifle competitors --- or plan on weighing each individual powder charge on a scale before loading it.

* Turn your case necks on the inside and outside.

* Check your loaded rounds for proper concentricity-- that the bullet is straight in alignment with the case (and, thus, your bore).

* Experiment with seating depth to get your loaded rounds to place the bullet where it just touches the rifling at the end of the chamber. No "free bore" movement if you can avoid it.

(there's more, but this is all I can think of for now).

 

[triharder72]

Really appreciate all of the great advice on this thread! Really excited to get this rig dialed in and see what I can do!

 

[Smackdwn54]

Realistically before you get into serious reloading buy scope 6x what that rifle costs.. Then get into reloading.. Good glass is at least 2,000 The new ATACR just came out..

 

[REDX]

You don't need a freakin scope that costs 6000, their are plenty of Sub 2000 scopes that can do the job for you.

 

[Twitch2120]

I have confidence that a lot of 1 mile shots have been made with vipers, xtr's and swfa's