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357 bullet molds

You can easily push gas checked boolits north of 2000 fps without leading issues. I currently load a 130 grain .285 bullet in my 7mm-08 at about 2150 and no leading issues and it will shoot 1.5MOA. I have a 206 grain gas checked that I shoot out of a CVA 35 remington right at 2050 and it shoots great also. Been shooting a factory gas checked 185 grain .358 out of my Marlin 1894CP at about 1600 for years and no leading there.

However, I do believe non-gas checked boolits forces you to stay a few hundred feet slower, but I couldn't give you exact numbers. I am sure it depends on the alloy and the caliber as well. Powder coating lets you go a bit faster than lubing also.

Rosewood
 
There may some extra wear in a commercial operation, but LEE molds will not wear out in normal use. The biggest advantage they have is that they will not rust - rust inside the mold can basically destroy a steel/iron mold.

I was basing my statement on some used molds I bought where both holes are not casting the same and appears to be wear around the mouth of the mold that I assume was from the previous user casting a lot. I will probably not buy any more used Lee molds for this reason.

Rosewood
 
How much does powder coating them or using grease help? Probably still get deformation and indifferent accuracy?

I've heard the Lee Reloading manual has a nice section on Lead bullets and the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook looks interesting. Any suggested reading?

I powder coat a Lee 175 grain .401 boolit and shoot out of my 40 S&Ws. I swear it is more accurate than jacketed bullets in the same guns. Absolutely zero leading.

Join http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php, more info there than you can ever read.

Here is the gospel for casting.
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

I have both Lee Manual and Lyman and each are good in their own right.

Rosewood
 
I suggest a visit to the website "cast Boolits" -- Lot of info and a lot of used moulds available -
Also Lymans cast bullet handbook is a valuable resource --
Casting is a fun hobby in itself and you can spend a peck of money on all the "necessaries".
Lee equipment is usually satisfactory.
Always a big savings in buying used tooling and it usually does not wear out --
my ha-penny -

PS - Hollow pointing is easier done by drilling the finished bullet - Using a hollow point or hollow base mould is a bit of bother --
 
After cogitating on this a mite I suggest-
looking on cast boolits or other site of your choice for a seller of the bullet you want before investing in moulds and all --
I just bought 500ea 125gr 9mm boolits from a fellow in penn for 33 shipped to ga --
If these work in my weapon I will then buy the mould --
OR -- you might even find a good ole boy to lend you the mould you are interested in --
 
The muzzle flash on the 125'ers is because the bullets have a whole lot of powder behind them, and they are so fast a lot of that powder gets blown out the barrel, and ignites as soon as it hits the oxygen. The 158 gr, are enough slower that the powder is mostly burned by the time the bullets exits the barrel.
Interesting

Thanks for all the info guys, looks like I've got some more reading to do before I actually buy anything.

I sure do like the way my 357's go BOOM when I pull the trigger. Just looking for a more affordable way to keep the fun going.
 
Interesting

Thanks for all the info guys, looks like I've got some more reading to do before I actually buy anything.

I sure do like the way my 357's go BOOM when I pull the trigger. Just looking for a more affordable way to keep the fun going.

Do you already reload and are just looking into casting? Hand loading saves money once you are setup and lets you shoot more, but it make take a while to see savings after you get all the equipment you need. Loading factory jacketed saves money over store bought ammo. You can load say a 125 grain JHP 357 mag for .20 to .30 cent per round. Store bought will cost you .50 center or more per round.

Rosewood
 
Reloading and casting are hobbies in their own right --
If you don't yet reload, or cast, you can get started inexpensively with only basic tooling, especially if you buy used tooling. Tooling generally does not really wear out.
Any tooling over the basics just makes the job easier or quicker --
my ha-penny
 
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