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A Tale of Two Crush Washers, or Two Crush Washers One Barrel, and other AR oddities

Aero manganese phosphate BCG. In the pic, it’s upside and that’s the gas key on the bottom.

The area outlined in red was not relieved properly, and wouldn’t allow the cam pin to drop free if the bolt carrier. I had to pry it out. This meant that whoever installed it at the factory had to have forced it in, or tapped/hammered it with something.

I took the pic after I removed enough material from that area to allow the cam pin to drop out, and reinstall, freely. I then used Oxpho-Blue on the area to blacken it.

My first thought was that the gas key was bent, or otherwise out of spec, but it was not.
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Almost right is worse than wrong

I was helping an ODT member build his AR, and couldn’t get the cam pin out. I kept muttering to myself, “If it went in, it’s gotta come out.” Verified the gas key wasn’t bent. Eventually came to the conclusion that it was forced into place, so I forced it out.
 
I’ve said here on this forum that it’s a terrible time to buy AR’s, AR parts, and ammo. Manufacturers have been churning all those out as quickly as possible for a while now, and QC has suffered.

Here’s an FDE, carbon-fiber, octagon handguard from Precision Reflex. Roughest CF surface I’ve ever seen.

Look at the carbon fibers hanging rough and loose where they cut out the slots.

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Customer: On my AR, the bolt locks to rear on an empty mag when you fire the last shot, but it won’t lock to the rear when I manually operate the bolt catch. What’s the problem?

Me: You. You’re the problem. You’re either pushing the wrong part of the bolt catch, you’re not pushing it hard enough, or you’re releasing the bolt catch too soon.

Customer: Could it be the detent?

Me: No. It’s you. If it operates with an empty mag, it has to operate manually.

I told him that if he wanted to bring it in, I’d be happy to show him how to operate his bolt catch.
 
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