I looked at a DD from 3-4 years ago. The one staking was good, but that's all they did.
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An AR15 is an AR15 is an AR15 .................................
- Thread starter gh1950
- Start date
I looked at a DD from 3-4 years ago. The one staking was good, but that's all they did.
some castle nuts don't have that square cut out and only have a very little nick in the castle nut. Just a little material moved into that nick is all it takes. Like I said before there are not rotational forces at work so it doesn't have to be damn near spot welded to the buffer tube. All you are trying to achieve is keeping the castle nut from working itself all the way loose. I use thread locker and a small stake to sure up the nut. Way to much thought is going into this. Use a punch and a light hammer or whatever you have and move some material into the recess of the castle nut and move on. On some guns I don't even stake the castle nut if I am going to try several different parts on that end of the gun. I like to try different options just to see if there are any better results. Mainly noise or harshness when the guns discharges. So like I said give it a good smooth and accurate punch and move on. If you get too overzealous the punch will bounce off and hit your rifle and make a mess of your finish. That's why I said delicate. Not delicate as in hitting the punch but delicate in holding the punch so it doesn't move and tapping the punch so it does what you are intending to do and not going beyond that and scratching the hell out of your 1,200 dollar build. My builds cost a lot of money so I tend to use words that describe the overall process while protecting the overall finish on my gun. If you are throwing an all PSA piece of sh*t together go ahead and wack the hell out out of it. I won't make a difference anyway the whole gun will only cost 350 bucks when it's all said and done. We are making a mountain out of a mole hole here.
I hate when people do that
Half assed staked. Looks like the “armorer” started the punch in the wrong place and said **** it, it’s good. Still better than 99% of Anderson’s.
The BFH Mike demonstrated staking with at SOLGW was a joke. That’s not what they actually use, he admitted it was for dramatic effect.
This is the style staking tool they use as well, which is hand ground by one of their armorers....
This is the style staking tool they use as well, which is hand ground by one of their armorers....
Yes, there can definitely be rotational forces at play. Some folks have the sling attached to the side of the buttstock, that pulls the buttstock to one side and tries rotate it. Just switching the stock from shoulder to shoulder, and many other actions, can easily put pressure on the toe of stock towards the side, causing rotation.
No, this most definitely is not a “mountain out of a molehill” situation. If the receiver extension rotates it can release the buffer retaining pin and spring. I’ve seen it happens and it usually ends up in the BCG or the trigger group. This is not an immediate action type of situation......this is a catastrophic failure that, at a minimum, requires an Armorer-level disassembly to fix.
I’ve built some guns as cheap as $1200, and many that cost much more than that. Regardless of how much money I spent on it, or the other person did, or what I intend on using it for, I stake properly and thoroughly.
