Another beginner

[richs]

Yesterday I acquired a a box of reloading tools for a very low price. I got a Lyman All American Turret Press with dies for .38 and .45 rounds, scale, powder feeder, 1000 small pistol and 1000 large pistol primers and a 'training book' with different powder measurements based on the round weight and caliber. Right now I'm only shooting 9MM, .40 S&W and .223 rifle. I'm planning on reloading the 9MM and the .223, but I have never done this before. I could use advice and guidance.

• I know I need to purchase the dies for 9MM and .223, should I hold on to the dies I have or sell them?
• Do I need to invest in a "trimmer" and a tumbler?
• Can either of the primers work in .223?
• Can other shell holders work in this press, or do I need to hunt one from Lyman?
• What powder is best to use to start with, and can I use the same powder for both pistol and rifle?

 

[grainchaser]

I would hold on to the dies, you never know...
Personally, I like clean brass. It improves die life, aids inspection and just looks spiffy!
Eventually you will have to trim and it is nice to have uniform dimensions when seating bullets and getting consistency.
The shellholders should be universal, i.e. Lee, Hornady and RCBS work in my Lyman turret press.
For 9mm, Titegroup, Unique and Autocomp are great powders. Others will have their personal favorites.
I don't load .223 anymore, but have had good luck with Varget.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Welcome to yet another addiction..... http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/metallic-cartridge-reloading-for-the-new-guy.116921/

 

[SpeedyR]

what is the "training book" and did you read it? I'm guessing not since it should have answered most of your questions.. but here's some of my houghts:

1) buy a good book on reloading. Whatever version of the Lee loading manual is most current or the Lyman 49 manual. Read it till you get to the load recipes. read it again. ask questions and look at videos online. find someone that's close to you that reloads and ask if you can watch. then give it a go, it's pretty simple but you really don't want to mess up something when it comes to reloading. There are also some very good step by step/how to threads on here and other forums that give you a good idea of what the process is...

• I know I need to purchase the dies for 9MM and .223, should I hold on to the dies I have or sell them?

I would keep them. you never know when you might change calibers. Or if you are set with your selection of guns, you could sell them if you are tight on cash. it'll cost you more to buy them later, so I recommend keeping them. I have two or three sets of calibers I don't reload for, but can't see selling them just yet.

• Do I need to invest in a "trimmer" and a tumbler?

trimmer for the 223 unless you purchase brass that is already sized and trimmed and had the primer pocket swaged. tumbler is good, but there are other ways to wash brass if it's not too dirty/old and you are really tight on funds.

• Can either of the primers work in .223?

you need small rifle primers for the 223 and in some cases be careful of which small rifle primers you get. As an example Remington 6 1/2 small rifle primers are for 22 hornet and 218 bee. They don't recommend them for 223/5.56. Some brands have a specific small rifle primer for the 5.56 loads. Small pistol is good for the 9mm.

• Can other shell holders work in this press, or do I need to hunt one from Lyman?

any brand shell holder will work. some brand dies come with a shell holder (mostly Lee).

• What powder is best to use to start with, and can I use the same powder for both pistol and rifle?

you will need different powder for the 9mm and 223. usually there is a big difference between the pistol and rifle calibers, but there is some cross over. Once you decide what bullets you want to shoot in each caliber, look thru the loading manuals to see what powders will work for that caliber and that bullet. Then find one of the powders that is close to the case capacity (load density) and start with that. or if you have an existing powder and it's on the list of what they recommend for that caliber and bullet, try that. start at the minimum loads and work your way up from there.

hope that helps a bit... there's lots of knowledgeable folks around these parts that are more than willing to share knowledge.

 

[richs]

Thanks all... yeah there's a lot of knowledge here and good folks willing to share. Based on what I've read so far, and current funds, I think I'll start with just the 9MM. I have a couple hundred rounds of 9, and about 1300 of .223, which should be more than enough (unless Barry f's up ROL)...
I also need to mention the stuff I got included about 20 lbs of .38 and .45 lead bullets. Can't really use them, and it's too small a batch for me to melt and cast... ( have about 250 to 300 lbs of lead in the garage). Got all this and more for $50!

 

[richs]

Another question, which is better, 2, 3 or 4 die sets? and what's the difference between them?

 

[SOLGardener]

2 die sets are general bottle neck rifle dies/. In that case, you full resize (not just the neck, but the body of the case) and you press the bullet in.

3 dies sets are generally straight wall pistol dies. One is an expander for the mouth of the case, on is a carbide resizer and one is the bullet sticker inner.

I haven'seen 4 die sets, but it could be a crimper in addition to the 3 die set.

I do use Lee factory crimp dies on my 5.56 and 7.62 loads.

 

[FamDoc2892]

Good advice above! Let me add/expand:

Get another loading manual and read it, too. You'll notice themes, and those are the basics; you'll also notice differences, and those are the things you should consider in your own personal reloading method/style. The purpose for which you are going to use the ammunition and the gun in which you will shoot it help you decide how you make it. Different books contain different load data, so you'll expand your range of tested and proven "recipes" as well.

Secondly, don't rest until you connect with an experienced reloader! You need someone to answer your beginning quenstions, but, more importantly, you need to study how they set up their bench, their press, even the light and the chair, and pay careful attention to their method, the sequence of steps they use, and their record-keeping. You may not do things exactly the same, but you want to develop a very consistent method of your own to avoid mistakes and be able to tune your ammunition's performace for the specific gun that shoots it. Loading is not hard, and it's not inherently dangerous, but it is meticulous, and it helps to be a little OCD! Prep your brass in front of the TV if you like, but load in solitude with full concentration.

 

[SOLGardener]

I'll seond the last point above. If you have an interruption and lose your place, back track and start again. For example if you dropping powder and something makes you look away, don't risk a guess at what case you were on. A double charge of powder or a lack of powder can both have serious results when you pull the trigger.

Every time I finish charging the powder into tray of cases, I put it under good light and check each case for presence and consistency of powder height. I then take a random 10% sample and weigh the charge. If you have any more than .1 grain variance (depending on powder- for pistol I have to have exact charge weight, only relying on the tolerance of my scale for variance), dump it and start over. You'll get a feel and rhythm for each step and you'll learn the feel of seating a primer and the feel of a loose neck when seating the bullet, but that comes from loading.

The first time I fired a reloaded case, it was a .308. I put the rifle on target, kinda ducked behind the action, said a prayer (Lord, don't let me blow myself up) and squeezed the trigger. I felt a little better on the second one.

You'll learn to evaluate fired cases for signs of overpressure and wear.

also, the hottest, fastest load is rarely the best. Many could shoot a faster load, but it isn't as accurate or consistent as the load they settled on.

 

[richs]

I have a BIG problem... NO ONE told me how much lube I need to process 1000 9MM rounds! I ran out, I guess I need a 1.5 L bottle next time.