Ar 15 build question/opinion

[Lionheart]

I’m not an AR builder.
I did however buy an AR built for 3-gun competition...for one of the best in the country.
For what it’s worth, it has a Lothar/Walther barrel. It shoots very small groups.

 

[Radar363]

I will put in my 2 cents about barrels :
I built 2 uppers using White Oak Armament stainless barrels, a 16 inch and an 18 inch with rifle length gas system.
The barrels are contoured in a way that putting on the gas block is almost foolproof so you shouldn't let that stop you from looking at WOA barrels.
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/spr-barrels-mid-rifle-gas-7-8-twist.html

 

[swallisa]

I will put in my 2 cents about barrels :
I built 2 uppers using White Oak Armament stainless barrels, a 16 inch and an 18 inch with rifle length gas system.
The barrels are contoured in a way that putting on the gas block is almost foolproof so you shouldn't let that stop you from looking at WOA barrels.
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/spr-barrels-mid-rifle-gas-7-8-twist.html

Actually if you buy the gas block from WOA when buying the barrel he aligns and dimples the barrel for you. Got an 18” SPR build using WOA highly recommend.


“Do not think that I came to bring peace on earth. I did not come to bring peace but a sword." Mat 10:34

 

[greg vess]

I will put in my 2 cents about barrels :
I built 2 uppers using White Oak Armament stainless barrels, a 16 inch and an 18 inch with rifle length gas system.
The barrels are contoured in a way that putting on the gas block is almost foolproof so you shouldn't let that stop you from looking at WOA barrels.
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/spr-barrels-mid-rifle-gas-7-8-twist.html

I haven't used them but a friend of mine who is also a member had really good results with WOA barrels. Good enough to pick off prairie dogs at 300 yards. He used a bull barrel for his build if I remember correctly.

 

[Radar363]

Actually if you buy the gas block from WOA when buying the barrel he aligns and dimples the barrel for you. Got an 18” SPR build using WOA highly recommend.


“Do not think that I came to bring peace on earth. I did not come to bring peace but a sword." Mat 10:34

I believe that they were out if stock on the low profile stainless one that I wanted so I ordered it from a different source, but I had forgotten that they offered that service.

 

[BamaBrad]

I have it narrowed down to Ballistic Advantage, WOA and Faxon for the barrel. Thanks for the replies. Like what I have been reading about these. Didn’t know the will dimple the barrel on the WOA barrel that will help.

 

[greg vess]

From my personal experience I can safely say Ballistic Advantage and White Oak Armament are good to go. I can't back Faxon since I have no personal experience with them. If you have the budget go with one of the Hanson barrels. I have one only because the reviews I have read and a few that I seem other who have them really got super results with. I just haven't tested mine out yet.

 

[BangBang]

All you need is the upper receiver vise block. That will hold the upper firm so you can torque the barrel nut down to proper specs. Each hand guard will usually have their own torque spec so make sure you refer to the manual for that info. Most of the time it is somewhere between 30 to 60 ft. lbs.. You want to make sure you go above 35 lbs but do not exceed 80 ft lbs. That is for a delta ring style barrel nut when you have to line up the grooves to accommodate the gas tube. Most free float hand guards have a barrel nut with a included wrench of some sort that will allow you to use a torque wrench. In that case somewhere in the 40 to 60 ft. lbs. will be just fine. Make sure you tighten it up in stages. Tighten it up a little then back off. Tighten it up a little more then back off and then for the final stage torque the nut down somewhere in that range. If it gets to a point where you really have to bear down on it then stop at the point as long it falls into the 40 to 60 range. I also like to insert the tool that is used to keep the grooves aligned in the Delta ring assembly in there just to give the upper some more support. It may not do anything but I like to think I am doing all I can to keep that upper from distorting from the tightening process. Also use a little anti seize compound on there in case you ever want to take it off. It serves two purposes. It aids as a lubricant during the torque process and also serves as a corrosion prohibiter and will allow the nut come off much easier if you ever have to take it off. Is it necessary no but it sure does make life easier down the road if you take the hand guard off.

Does the anti seize affect the torque specs?

 

[greg vess]

Does the anti seize affect the torque specs?

It just lubricates the threads so the tightening process is easier to obtain. Also makes it easier to break loose down the road. It doesn't have to be done but I have had to many unpleasant run ins with mil spec barrel nuts not wanting to come off and end up tearing up those gas tube groves in the process. It's just good insurance. I think it's force of habit for me. When working on these new engines you have to use it because when the steel and aluminum meet a corrosive environment you get what they call galvanic corrosion. The two metals almost bond if it doesn't have a non conductive layer between the two. Hence the anti-seize.

 

[BamaBrad]

Ok, want some sound advice here. I am having some thoughts on which to use installing my barrel. I don’t know whether to use the reaction rod to install the barrel because I am reading it puts a lot of stress in one spot. Or should I use the BevBlock to install the barrel and use the reaction rod to install the muzzle brake?