I'd get a full size .22 pistol that has the barrel solidly attached to the frame (for accuracy), in a barrel length of 5" to 6" (for accuracy, again), and one that comes factory-threaded (saves you $150 on having a gunsmith do this).
Pick a gun that's easy to disassemble for cleaning. Shooting .22LR through a can creates blowback that throws a lot of crap into your gun's action. It's dirtier than shooting unsuppressed.
Now, a 5" barrel might allow SOME high velocity .22LR rounds to break the sound barrier and give you a supersonic crack. Okay. But in my experience, most brands and lots of ammo, even "high velocity" ammo will NOT. So, do some experimenting and find what works in your gun. I shoot mine a lot more without the can on it than with. Sometimes I just want the "look" and "muzzle weight" of a can on the end, but I don't care a thing about reducing the noise, so I'll use a fake can ($30). I have a Tac-Sol fake suppressor, an AAC real suppressor, and two different kinds of flash hiders / comps that I can screw onto the end of my BuckMark's barrel.
Pick a gun that's easy to disassemble for cleaning. Shooting .22LR through a can creates blowback that throws a lot of crap into your gun's action. It's dirtier than shooting unsuppressed.
Now, a 5" barrel might allow SOME high velocity .22LR rounds to break the sound barrier and give you a supersonic crack. Okay. But in my experience, most brands and lots of ammo, even "high velocity" ammo will NOT. So, do some experimenting and find what works in your gun. I shoot mine a lot more without the can on it than with. Sometimes I just want the "look" and "muzzle weight" of a can on the end, but I don't care a thing about reducing the noise, so I'll use a fake can ($30). I have a Tac-Sol fake suppressor, an AAC real suppressor, and two different kinds of flash hiders / comps that I can screw onto the end of my BuckMark's barrel.