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Maybe at some point, NF will come out with an SHV F1 with more top end magnification than 14x. 1000yds can be be done on 14x for sure, but for dot drills smaller targets, more precise shooting, it would be nice to turn it up a bit.
I'm sure they will... and soon. I have an F1 now, but it's on a hunting rifle.

Thing is, I'm not sure if the extra magnification on an F1 would do you any good. On the 4x14 the reticle fills the scope at 14. Any more magnification and it will be cutting off that higher value holdovers.
 
With all this great information we would be mistaken to not address the elephant in the room. I love .308, my daughter shoots .308, but it has its limits. If you are looking to reach out to 1000+ yards you need to be sure to have a scope with enough elevation adjustment. Abi has a 20 MOA base. Be sure to compare how much elevation each scope has, and then compare to your ballistics


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How many MOAs of adjustment does the Nikon have? How many MOAs does it take for a 175 grain bullet to reach 1000? even with a 20 MOA base the OP would be pushing it.
Oh yes! I wasn't suggesting that particular scope. It's a clear and bright scope. It doesn't have near enough magnification for long range use. It would be a great hunting or just 4-600 yard target but it just wouldn't do. I just suggested he look through it. It's crystal clear glass and light transmission is a good scope to compare a high dollar scope too because if you can see a difference over the Nikon then you have something. The M-308 Nikon was good for me with just doing some range playing and it's a dynamic scope for a long (300-500) big game shot. However it just isn't going to be able to do what he is needing.
 
Lets be clear on that. It was clearer than a high dollar scope we compared it too. I wasn't suggesting he buy that scope for real long range shooting. I was saying if you are in doubt about the scope you are looking at, peak through the Nikon M-308. If the Nikon is clearer then put the scope you selected back on the counter and keep looking. Nikon is in the glass business. Not just for scope but cameras and god you name it. Their glass is damn near unbeatable. If I am buying a 1,500 to 1,800 dollar scope I want it to give me my monies worth. The glass should be impeccable.
 
In the absence of formal testing, "the beauty is in the eye of the beholder". There are many variables and conditions that can make one mistakenly believe that an inferior scope is clearer than a superior scope.
 
In the absence of formal testing, "the beauty is in the eye of the beholder". There are many variables and conditions that can make one mistakenly believe that an inferior scope is clearer than a superior scope.
Agreed, but I'll never forget looking through my first Nightforce. I had used all kinds of other "good" scopes. Primarily Leupold. The obvious difference was stunning.
 
Agreed, but I'll never forget looking through my first Nightforce. I had used all kinds of other "good" scopes. Primarily Leupold. The obvious difference was stunning.

I'm on the range with students several times a month, looking through all sorts of optics, at all times of day and night, in all sorts of weather. A lot of less expensive scopes are "fair weather" scopes.....nice to look through in the middle of day on your flat, KD range, but when you have it out during dusk/dawn, fog, inclement weather, etc., they fall flat.

Then try and pick up color/contrast with them. Again, they work fine on the sunny, flat, KD range when you're shooting at paper targets or painted steel, but try to find a target that doesn't want to be found, one that blends into the background. Or look at several targets that are at similar distances and try to pick out which one is closest.

Now set aside optical clarity and look at ruggedness, reliability, and repeatability. Dial the scope from your zero out to 1,000yds + and back on a regular basis. Run some Box Drills and Ladder Tests with it.

There's a reason why expensive scopes cost so much and cheaper scopes.......do not.
 
I'm on the range with students several times a month, looking through all sorts of optics, at all times of day and night, in all sorts of weather. A lot of less expensive scopes are "fair weather" scopes.....nice to look through in the middle of day on your flat, KD range, but when you have it out during dusk/dawn, fog, inclement weather, etc., they fall flat.

Then try and pick up color/contrast with them. Again, they work fine on the sunny, flat, KD range when you're shooting at paper targets or painted steel, but try to find a target that doesn't want to be found, one that blends into the background. Or look at several targets that are at similar distances and try to pick out which one is closest.

Now set aside optical clarity and look at ruggedness, reliability, and repeatability. Dial the scope from your zero out to 1,000yds + and back on a regular basis. Run some Box Drills and Ladder Tests with it.

There's a reason why expensive scopes cost so much and cheaper scopes.......do not.
That part about ruggedness should not be overlooked. I've dealt with quite a few scopes that have had their internals come loose from recoil. Even some "high end" scopes can have this problem. I've had it happen with two Swarovskis. I'll never buy another.
 
Off track a bit but the last 3-4 years at SHOT show I have handled these scopes and been VERY impressed with them. Has anyone been behind any of these optics in the field? Made in Canada:
http://tangenttheta.com/

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