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Best recipe for tightening up my 30'06 groups in an autoloader.

Anal, I guess. I like knowing who to blame. If I take the gun out of the equation then all the blame for a poor or missed shot points at me. Also the reason I tote the autoloader is that occasionally under pressure ( while I have time and there is good slaughtering weather ) I fill the freezer in one whack. Probably never takin over 5 deer a season and 4 of those came in fading light on the last day with an empty freezer. Back to the main reason for the post. I thought that there might be a propriortary powder that works better in a autoloader.
If its a hunting rifle why worry about groups? If the first shot goes where the cross hairs are, why do you need to shoot 3 more at the deer?

On a deer gun if you can put all rounds fired into a pie plate at 100yards, offhand, you will put meat in the freezer.
 
maybe Im out of turn here but a few observations that may help?
-Autoloaders can be particular about powder- too fast or too slow can cycle the action roughly or cause innacuracy
-Bullets weights on the light side probably will shoot better , maybe 150-165 area, but perhaps a well constructed lighter bullet may be the ticket. This helped quite a bit with my R1.
-uniform ignition helps tremendously with autoloaders. I achieve this in bolt guns by seating close to the lands, in an autoloader this is not possible for obvious reasons. Try a Lee factory crimp die. Made a WORLD of difference in my .300R1, and is a whopping $10.
- Barnes bullets can sometimes be finicky as sh*t. I find my rifles either like'em or they don't. Not a lot of middleground
These are only my experiences, good luck and let us know how it pans out for you.
 
I had better success last night with 46gn of Varget and the 168gn Barnes Triple Shock. A similar load shot a very tight group in 308Win from an Encore. What your is your recipe for the 300? I have one also.
maybe Im out of turn here but a few observations that may help?
-Autoloaders can be particular about powder- too fast or too slow can cycle the action roughly or cause innacuracy
-Bullets weights on the light side probably will shoot better , maybe 150-165 area, but perhaps a well constructed lighter bullet may be the ticket. This helped quite a bit with my R1.
-uniform ignition helps tremendously with autoloaders. I achieve this in bolt guns by seating close to the lands, in an autoloader this is not possible for obvious reasons. Try a Lee factory crimp die. Made a WORLD of difference in my .300R1, and is a whopping $10.
- Barnes bullets can sometimes be finicky as sh*t. I find my rifles either like'em or they don't. Not a lot of middleground
These are only my experiences, good luck and let us know how it pans out for you.
 
Ill reference my load book when I get to the house. I have 2 or 3 I remember working well.
I do remember the benelli being a 1 in 11 rather than the standard 1 in 10- so light bullets would seem counter intuitive, but hell, they worked well in mine. I do know one of the loads was with the barnes 150 gr tipped TSX. they probably shot ok because theyre long for their weight, thus more bearing surface.
 
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