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Car hauler trailer advice

Call HOOPER TRAILER, in MONTICELLO, GA, talk to CECIL, or his son...

Tell them exactly what you want and your troubles are over, we have bought many trailers from him over the years, and yes we have been very satisfied with the trailers...


just a simple suggestion to consider...
 
I have owned pretty much every trailer mentioned. Just my opinion but a 20 ft trailer was always a little more PITA to handle. The wood does have to be replaced at times so there is an issue. Plenty of tie downs are helpful and heavier axles make the trailer more versatile.
Ideally I would buy a 18 ft diamond steel plate bed with 5k axles, at least one spare and plenty of tie downs.
 
I also keep two spare sets of bearings, and a heavy jack with blocks in my truck. NOT fun, having to leave your loaded trailer on the side of the road while you chase down bearings.
 
I sold my 20' to a member on here last year. IT had a metal floor too. Regret it the day after i sold it. dang nice trailer and he got a DEAL....!

IMO, there are many used trailers on CL that are beat to death. Even the ones that aren't, typically need TIRES, BEARINGS and BRAKES (just like Roundhouse said above ^^). You spend more in the long run messing w/that crap VS sucking it up and buying NEW. Been there, done that many times already!!!!

IMO, better off buying NEW. There are a few listings on CL for NEW trailers in East AL and I believe Chatsworth GA that have a basic new one for $1750 or so. 16' wood. one set of brakes. I believe w/the 2nd set of brakes you would be close to $2000. (one set of brakes are NOT sufficient or legal in GA for most dual axle trailers). Spare tire is a MUST, and also buy one spare axle hub and keep it in a box in the front. Add a jack with various pieces of 2x4's, 4x4's and 6x6's along w/wheel chocks. Handy if you have to change a tire or hub on the site of the road. Make sure to get a LUG wrench w/the right size for nuts b/c most vehicles don't match the trailer lug sizes.

I'll make the list below for easy reference: Get yourself a small BOX for the front of the trailer.

1. Various size pieces of lumber for adding height to jacks, etc. Jacking on dirt tends to make jack sink (ask me how i know). 2x4, 4x4, 6x6's from 4",6",8" lengths.
2. Good jack (maybe a bottle jack with screw top for added lift. 3 ton works for most light duty applications).
3. (1) new axle hub assembly, sealed up so no dirt or grease enters it. Extra grease is a good idea
4. NEW spare tire (not a "used" tire that may blow up after 5 miles). Check your spare tire psi when you check other tires too. They tend to loose air over time.
5. (2) Wheel chocks
6. Lug wrench that fits the trailer lugs
7. Always a good idea to have the triangle type of warning sticks to put out a few hundred feet from your breakdown. I can't tell you how many MORONS there are out there.

Finally, if you get a flat and there is nowhere safe to pull over, IMO, I drive on the flat until there is a safe spot. DOn't care what I ruin b/c it can be replaced. I cannot be replaced.
 
if you really need a car trailer, Here's some good advice. Your're
not going to keep it forever so get one with good resale. 18 footer with removeable fenders and steel deck is the only way to go.
Tubular frame is the most expensive, but a good channel iron will work.
Hardy trailers on marketplace are 2100.00 and a good used trailer will always bring 1500.00 or better
Hope it helps.
 
Hooper trailer 18x7, steel deck,drop axles, dovetail, removable fender. Can drive a lowered hot rod onto it with no problems. And it can haul my tractor.
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Renting a uhaul trailer 6 times a year is cheaper than buying one. I’ve had a hauler for a couple years. It has hauled a car twice.

Metal deck
Foldable fenders
Minimum 5k axles. 6 lug.
I like a 20’
Spare tire is a must
Winches are handy.
 
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