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Lots of discussion on other Forums regarding crimping rifle rounds; the majority of experienced opinion is that you will get better accuracy without a crimp.
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Case Lubing
- Thread starter jsquared
- Start date
I do similar except for cleaning cases before I size. Most of the stuff I shoot gets filthy so it needs a good cleaning before processing.
I use Dillon case lube. Great stuff where a little goes a long way.
I use a little CLP on a Q-tip and rub it on the case with my fingers (Q-tip gets inside the case mouth easier and I smear it on the shoulders then rub with fingers) so that I can get a good feel for anything out of shape (dented flattened) before resizing/ decapping.
If you use CLP Be very careful not to overlube. It is very easy to do and you get little dents in the shoulder of the case. then you got to reform and it degrades the integrity of the case, or so I read. I fired them to reform without issue.
I use a Lee primer pocket tool and a jewellers screwdriver to remove the crap out of the primer pocket. After a few reloads it can get in the way of seating the primer fully. (also depends on what primers you use, I use Winchester everything, but that is jsut what I like.)
thenreseat a new primer with either a RCBS hand primer or a Lee hand primer.
I then throw powder and seat bullet.
I have tried a crimp on my 300WinMag and found that a non crimped round is more consistent with grouping. I do not crimp anymore.
If you use CLP Be very careful not to overlube. It is very easy to do and you get little dents in the shoulder of the case. then you got to reform and it degrades the integrity of the case, or so I read. I fired them to reform without issue.
I use a Lee primer pocket tool and a jewellers screwdriver to remove the crap out of the primer pocket. After a few reloads it can get in the way of seating the primer fully. (also depends on what primers you use, I use Winchester everything, but that is jsut what I like.)
thenreseat a new primer with either a RCBS hand primer or a Lee hand primer.
I then throw powder and seat bullet.
I have tried a crimp on my 300WinMag and found that a non crimped round is more consistent with grouping. I do not crimp anymore.
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I have been known to soak and slosh loads of brass in Dawn liquid soap and warm water overnight ... Something that we did 40 years ago before tumblers were even talked about much less used! This removes most crud and leaves an acceptable round for lube and size operations ... Heck, we actually reloaded rounds "cleaned" like this!
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I currently use RCBS Lube and a Pad ... Works, but what a messy way to go!
My son-in-law who is an electrician suggest that I take some cable pull lube (looks and feels like KY-Jelly!) and dulute it with ISO Alcohol.
Place it in a sprayer, spray the cases and let them dry (overnight) then have at it ... May try this as the RCBS stuff looks (and feels) just like KY...!?
My son-in-law who is an electrician suggest that I take some cable pull lube (looks and feels like KY-Jelly!) and dulute it with ISO Alcohol.
Place it in a sprayer, spray the cases and let them dry (overnight) then have at it ... May try this as the RCBS stuff looks (and feels) just like KY...!?
Clarke, the Dillon spray lube has been copied on many various boards. It is pure lanolin from a drug store and rubbing alcohol .... I forget the ratio but it can be found I am sure.
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That's one of the ingerdients for "Ed's Red" bore cleaner, which I didn't use in my last batch ...!
There's a site that has all of those "formulas" on it.
If I can find it (again) I'll post it for those that may be interested.
I have yet to find any luck crimping rifle rounds. When I tried it accuracy was poor. So I wne t without doing and have yet to have a problem with rounds be seated deeper in the case.
I DO use Hornadays one shot for case lube and have not had any problems.
I DO use Hornadays one shot for case lube and have not had any problems.
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I used a pad and lube for years and just hated it. It was one of the reasons I avoided reloading rifle ammo but then the spray lube came along. I have not used my pad since and if anyone wants it just contact me and it's yours for free.
Stuck cases are not limited to spray on lube but directly linked to insufficient lube on the case. It occurs with both methods and is a b*&%@ to unscrew. To prevent it, I use a loading block and spray the cases on four planes: front, left side, right side and back. By the time I get my die screwed into place the lube is typically dry enough to use. The forewarning to a stuck case is the pressure on the handle spikes as you run the case up into the die and you should stop! attempt to back it out and hope it does not rip the rim off the case. If it does you can Google it or post another thread here.
Good luck!
I use this method too. I also uniform the flashholes the first time. One word of caution on the M1A is on case life. My experience is after about 3 loads they're trashed. I tried Lapua and other expensive brass with no better life than with Remington, Winchester, or Lake City. The M1A is my choice when it come to the .308 autoloader, but everyone I've shot consumes brass quickly. I admit that factor slowed my shooting of them down dramtically back when I used to shoot a lot.
