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Colt Competition 1911 .45 Project Gun, Complete!
- Thread starter markj
- Start date
I'll say this: I've gotten some great help and assistance through this forum, from bothjglenn and
markj and worked with others like @jjrock, it's a pretty friendly crowd and a lot of knowledge here. It's not very neighborly to come into another man's build thread and drop-trow to try and start comparing dicks. If the above was your professional goal, I'm happy you've succeeded, and it would seem that you are on the fast track to do the same thing here on this forum.
I would also say by your own description, you are the absolute WORST kind of 1911 smith out there. Sure you may build great custom guns, but at that level as a customer I want MY gun, by all means I'd love to hear what your years of experience tell you, and if I'm smart, I'll listen, but ultimately it's MY decision. There seems to be a mythos around 1911 builders that wait time and ****ty service/curmudgeonly interactions means you somehow get a better firearm, and I gotta say it just ain't true. I wouldn't have paid you for one of your guns when you were a pro, and if you're here as a retiree/hobbyist, nobody really has the patience to put up with your bad manners, especially when you're being rude to proven members who have gone out of their way to be polite to you.
Now if you really want to participate and show your chops, I would suggest that you start some of your own threads. Show some of the things you've built and share that hard-won expertise. I guarantee you that it will be appreciated. I love to see quality work and a well put together gun.
Now, can we please get back to
Wow! .......... You're good at this, lol.
Very nice
If you have any issues on those, the fix is to contour the feed lips about 1/8" further to the rear of the mag. Nose-dives are the symptom, but I've heard that the ramped barrels solved a lot of the issues.
Very handsome! And, what is meant by "reverse crown?" Did you start inside the bore with a boring bar and machine out towards the muzzle? Excellent work. Thanks for sharing.
*edited to remove a question.
*edited to remove a question.
WOW what a ride......I'll sit back, keep my mouth shut and learn ALL I can here.
Wellison,"reverse crown" has become a term loosely tossed around when referring to a deep cut crown, but yes, you are correct. the crown is single point cut from the inside out. Set the lathe compound to the desired angle and cut using a boring tip. I use a home made HSS tool.
Its well known that the most desirable crown angle is 11 degrees. The 45 deg. crown like this one is used to recess the crown from the muzzle to protect it, and basically because it looks cool............ At .45 acp velocities the angle of the crown is less critical than the concentricity with the bore. That said, if this were a target pistol used at 50 yards and I was going after every last .1" of group size, I would probably just stick with 11 degrees.
Here is a pic with the barrel mounted in a fixture that allows you to adjust the front and rear of the barrel to get it concentric with the axis of rotation. Im using a gage pin that fits inside the bore and checking at various points along the length of the pin. this process took 20-30 mins to get the whole thing dialed in within .001"
Here is a pic of the barrel in the fixture after being cut. shown the way the barrel is being held.
Please note, this is just the way I do it. There are plenty of ways to arrive at the same place. My Southbend 9" is a relatively small lathe. the through hole in the headstock is small and wont accommodate the chamber end of the barrel due to the lugs, so I have to hold the entire barrel outside of the headstock.
-Mark
Its well known that the most desirable crown angle is 11 degrees. The 45 deg. crown like this one is used to recess the crown from the muzzle to protect it, and basically because it looks cool............ At .45 acp velocities the angle of the crown is less critical than the concentricity with the bore. That said, if this were a target pistol used at 50 yards and I was going after every last .1" of group size, I would probably just stick with 11 degrees.
Here is a pic with the barrel mounted in a fixture that allows you to adjust the front and rear of the barrel to get it concentric with the axis of rotation. Im using a gage pin that fits inside the bore and checking at various points along the length of the pin. this process took 20-30 mins to get the whole thing dialed in within .001"
Here is a pic of the barrel in the fixture after being cut. shown the way the barrel is being held.
Please note, this is just the way I do it. There are plenty of ways to arrive at the same place. My Southbend 9" is a relatively small lathe. the through hole in the headstock is small and wont accommodate the chamber end of the barrel due to the lugs, so I have to hold the entire barrel outside of the headstock.
-Mark
