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Dressed in Nickel

Nice work. They will resist corrosion very well. To clean fired cases, use the washing machine. They come out looking like new, inside and out. Put a bunch of them in an old towel. Put the soap inside with the brass. Secure with an electrical tie wrap. Wash with more towels on hot water.

You can air dry or put in oven at 250 degrees for 30 mins.
 
Nice work. They will resist corrosion very well. To clean fired cases, use the washing machine. They come out looking like new, inside and out. Put a bunch of them in an old towel. Put the soap inside with the brass. Secure with an electrical tie wrap. Wash with more towels on hot water.

You can air dry or put in oven at 250 degrees for 30 mins.


Pretty cool tip!
 
Nice work. They will resist corrosion very well. To clean fired cases, use the washing machine. They come out looking like new, inside and out. Put a bunch of them in an old towel. Put the soap inside with the brass. Secure with an electrical tie wrap. Wash with more towels on hot water.

You can air dry or put in oven at 250 degrees for 30 mins.


Sounds like a nice system you have there. For cleaning brass, I use a Thumlers tumbler with SS pins. I get decent results as shown in the pic:



Bayou
 
I really like to use nickel cases for my 38 Super and 10 MM reloads as it is easier to spot them at the range.
the common calibers such as 38 spl, 380, 9 MM, 45 I keep the nickel cases to reload my self defense ammo as it usually sits on the shelf a lot longer than my range loads.
 
It seems like almost all of the nickle 45's I reload fail the case guage.

Hi, Hunterrs -

I shot the nickel 45 reloads shown in the pic today. Not a single jam or failure to feed. I also use a Dillon case gauge to check them as a final step. If your reloads don't fit in the case gause, may I suggest:

1. Checking your sizing die to make sure you're full length sizing the entire case,

2. Make sure your taper crimp is adjusted to comletely remove your flare/bell at the case mouth and also add a very slight crimp (just a couple of thousanths),

3. Sometimes the case rims have burs that prevent the case from fitting flush in the case gauge. I use a light file to remove burs.

Just some ideas. The objective is to have the finished reload slip in and out of the case gauge like silk....You can be assured of smooth cycling.....


Bayou


PS - the range officer saw my nickel reloads and commented jokingly that I'd better quickly pick up my cases as guys were trolling for those things!
 
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typically nickel cases won't last as long as brass, they will split much sooner from working the nickel but they do look nice!! I usually separate mine just so if I want to mix up something nice I can use the nickel cases, but for daily use I usually prefer brass..
 
typically nickel cases won't last as long as brass, they will split much sooner from working the nickel but they do look nice!! I usually separate mine just so if I want to mix up something nice I can use the nickel cases, but for daily use I usually prefer brass..

This has been my experience with nickel 38 & 357 cases...the nickel ones are brittle and don't last long. When I buy a mixed batch of cases, I usually end up selling the nickel ones to the cowboy action shooters...they seem to love them.
 
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