Engine Rebuild vs Turnkey

[AK74U]

I'm not good at judging engines, but the guy sold the Suburban and kept the 454. He said it ran when he last drove it 5 years ago. So I only have his grain of salt to go on. I would just take the core of the engine a machine shop and have them strip it down and refinish it. I would buy everything else to build it myself. So only because of the price of the engine is the real reason why I'm asking about building it or buying a turnkey since its only $650. It has some surface rust, but its sitting on the floor of his garage. And over 120k miles on the engine.

You didn’t say, what condition is the motor now?

 

[AK74U]

Hoping to luck up and find a 83-88 SS coupe with t-tops. If not, I'll have the t-tops job done professionally.

You opened a can of worms.....OK, what year Monte Carlo? The late 70s - 80s engine compartments will have to be modified to fit a big block. great car though. I'm the 3rd owner of my 84. I decided to go with a large small block, 434. I started out looking for a full frame big block car. Full frame so I could get the HP I wanted without building a roll cage to hold it together. I found my car with a 383 in it. I looked at the specs and decided that was what I was looking for. It had 475hp and ran well with big block torque. I bought the car, drove it about 2 yrs. The head gasket wound up needing to be replaced, that's all. Well one thing lead to another and I wanted more. The 383 took me about a 1/2 day to learn how to drive it due to power. Well I decided to go back with small block, but in 434. The small block dimensions are the same for 283-455 cu. in. small block. So you don't have to modify anything to make it fit and the small block gets better fuel economy. I also already had the headers and other parts. It just made better economical sense. The stock block really shouldn't be built beyond 525HP. So I found a crate engine company and went with a Dart block and forged internals, you really want forged internals when approaching 500HP or more. I built with the intention of adding NOS and or a supercharger. I was hoping for 100mph in the 1/8th mi. Well I got 135. Far beyond what I hoped for. So I was perfectly happy with what I had. The 383 got @ 13-14mpg. The 434 with 700HP gets @10. You'll never get that good with a big block. You're talking @ 6 mpg or so. Of course you can get more performance out of a big block. The heads just don't compare. Also if you're going with a carburetor, get a Quick Fuel. Holly design with same type performance, but much much more reliable. And it'll last longer too. After @ 2k miles with a Holley, I was having to adjust it ever so often. @ 4k mi, it needed rebuilt. I'm trying to remember how long I've had the new engine, maybe nearly 15k mi. I've never touched a screw on that carb. The carb is a lot more money, but..... I wanted an all mechanical engine with mechanical fuel pump as well. You may want to go with a electric fuel pump though. It'll be much better around town, no vapor lock. You'll find you start getting away from factory, you're in for a lot of growing pains and headaches. Also adding a/c to a performance engine is another challenge, just a heads up. Remember there is no substitute for engine displacement. By the way, it took me 1500mi to learn how to drive the car after installing new engine.....

 

[basstracker89]

I'm not good at judging engines, but the guy sold the Suburban and kept the 454. He said it ran when he last drove it 5 years ago. So I only have his grain of salt to go on. I would just take the core of the engine a machine shop and have them strip it down and refinish it. I would buy everything else to build it myself. So only because of the price of the engine is the real reason why I'm asking about building it or buying a turnkey since its only $650. It has some surface rust, but its sitting on the floor of his garage. And over 120k miles on the engine.

I'd be willing to bet it's seized up, just sayin. Also if you're goin 454, bore and stroke to 496. I have one and love it

 

[basstracker89]

Hoping to luck up and find a 83-88 SS coupe with t-tops. If not, I'll have the t-tops job done professionally.

Don't do t-tops. Oh it looks good, but they'll leak and it'll take away body strength. You might as well have a unibody car. I've seen t-top cars twist like a tin can with a powerful motor in it.

 

[Ken Ford]

I'm not good at judging engines, but the guy sold the Suburban and kept the 454. He said it ran when he last drove it 5 years ago. So I only have his grain of salt to go on. I would just take the core of the engine a machine shop and have them strip it down and refinish it. I would buy everything else to build it myself. So only because of the price of the engine is the real reason why I'm asking about building it or buying a turnkey since its only $650. It has some surface rust, but its sitting on the floor of his garage. And over 120k miles on the engine.

650 for a rebuilt and installed? That would be fantastic and for your purposes probably all you need.

Or are you saying a rebuilt/crate motor you have to install.

Turn key means it’s installed and you only need to “turn the key” to drive. Is that what you are saying?

 

[fslc94]

You did everything yourself?

Scott’s doing my head work, but other than that yes. I got this 5.3 from an 03 Silverado. $700 bucks, 123k miles and it’s in fantastic shape. I’m running the new Xmax system from Holley to run everything including the transmission. I didn’t wanna fool with junkyard wiring harnesses and computer. My neighbor gave me the 97 GMC 1500 that was sitting in her driveway for years. 👍🏻

 

[BillsCamino]

I used the FiTech system on my 5.3 swap...included the trans control. Super simple...plug 'n play
'67 Camaro....

 

[BillsCamino]

Of course, I like big blocks too....
70 Chevelle w/540

 

[basstracker89]

5.3...........Nice job by the way. 540......

 

[AK74U]

No, $650 for the original engine. Its not rebuilt.

650 for a rebuilt and installed? That would be fantastic and for your purposes probably all you need.

Or are you saying a rebuilt/crate motor you have to install.

Turn key means it’s installed and you only need to “turn the key” to drive. Is that what you are saying?