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Fitting a "hard fit" match grade 1911 barrel.

Nice thread . Where do you shoot ?

Bullseye at River Bend and South River.
IDPA, I try and make all the Cherokee Gun club matches, and I like the Trading Place matches, though I hardly ever make it due to work schedule.
Member at South River.

Thanks Madrox.
 
Just realized I forgot to mention the chamber. On a Kart, or any other gunsmith fit (and some drop in) barrels, you will have to finish ream the chamber. Most people look to set the chamber depth between .903-.905". a finish reamer cuts the chamber, but just as important, it cuts the throat. These reamers are not cheap, but if you have a handful of pistols in a given caliber, it cant hurt to go check some of the factory barrels. You might be surprised at what you find. If not, just pay a local smith, its a quick job.

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Thanks. Ive got a RIA 9mm FS Tactical that Ive been working on here and there. Ive taken a few pics along the way. So far Ive welded and re-cut the frame rails and installed a new barrel (the fit and lock up is great, makes everyone laugh when they first rack the slide).
Im planning a weld on magwell for it, but I have to make a few fixtures first. It will be a fun project, just have to make sure its all labor and as little cash as possible, because a $400 gun, no matter what you do to it, is a $400 gun!

Ill make a thread on it when I get a little more done. It will be fun to see just how far you can take a RIA.......
 
Well you notice the pics are of two different installs, spread out about a month a part. I tend to go pretty slow, Ill set aside as much of a full Sat. as I can to fit a barrel. Measure everything 3-4 times. Once Im out at the Mill, I go even slower, sneaking up on the dimensions a few thousandths at a time. The barrel fitting fixture is SUPPOSED to allow you to remove and re-install the barrel without loosing zero, but I have found its just not the case. There is a ton of math and measuring going on when cutting the lower lugs in the mill. That's why I always forget to take a picture during that part of the process.

To answer your question though, its about 5-6 hours start to finish. Im sure a pro could do it in half the time, but since Im the one paying for the parts, I tend to slow down and "savor" the experience!! lol.
 
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nice article Markj

I built my own Bullseye guns back in the 80s. and still have a few. shot all over the SE including the old River Bend and South River. Used S&W and Clark barrels back then but Karts are the way to go these days.

the Wilson lug cutter is the best tool around no doubt. EGW makes some neat tools for the 1911 I love their new trigger fitting gauge
Use the Power #1 trigger / sear jig since the late 80s as it covered all my bullseye guns.


for serious matches I used my Clark long heavy slide. Can't bring myself to sell it as it was made by the old man when he still was around..

as you noted, 1911 barrels are all over the place for headspace length....


1st time most folks feel a real bullseye gun they are amazed at how smooth they are

We used the Nosler 185 HP for the 50 yard range and the 200 gr H&G 68 mold for 25

Vihtavuori 310 and 5.0gr of AA N100 for the 185 noslers works very well. The late Alan Fulford used the 5.0gr of AA N100 and the Marine Corp used 310. I was very lucky to shoot with and be around a number of great folks and gunmiths out of Benning in those days.

if anyone Really wants to learn how to shot a pistol try Bullseye
 
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