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Fix those Knicks and scratches in your aluminum accessories.

greg vess

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If you've ever tried to touch up the Knicks and scratches in your aluminum parts you'll know that painting looks like s***. I do a lot of resto jobs and fixing scratches and stuff in aluminum is easy if you have the right stuff. Get you a bottle of this stuff and it works wonders. Just dip a q-tip in it and it hold it on the scratch and dab it back and forth across it. It's a bluish tint liquid but it reacts with the aluminum and it'll cover those scratches and dings and look somewhat original. This stuff works amazingly and can bring a rough looking handguard back to life.
 

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If you've ever tried to touch up the Knicks and scratches in your aluminum parts you'll know that painting looks like s***. I do a lot of resto jobs and fixing scratches and stuff in aluminum is easy if you have the right stuff. Get you a bottle of this stuff and it works wonders. Just dip a q-tip in it and it hold it on the scratch and dab it back and forth across it. It's a bluish tint liquid but it reacts with the aluminum and it'll cover those scratches and dings and look somewhat original. This stuff works amazingly and can bring a rough looking handguard back to life.
Thanks for posting. I’ll give this a try.
 
How about very light pitting from surface rust on steel. Any product to fill these areas before refinishing.
For a truck gun not a top end gun.
Thanks
 
How about very light pitting from surface rust on steel. Any product to fill these areas before refinishing.
For a truck gun not a top end gun.
Thanks
Not really. Just sand the devil out of it. You need to sand it down to the absolute bear metal anyways so you can take a little extra off. just don't used to aggressive a sandpaper as you will put the scratches too deep it will take you forever to get them out. And you should be able to get it somewhat close just by good sanding. I like sand in mind so I get nothing but just shiny metal with no specs or any kind of surface and inperfections when I can. The better the surface prep the better the blue will come out. Especially on older barrels they seem to love the bluing process better something in the steel.

This is absolutely essential, apply the blueing compound with just a small bit of sponge making sure to get everything evenly. Let it set on the barrel for about 30 seconds and then rinse off with cold water. Before you go on to the next step take a very light scuff pad and go over the surface of which you just blewed. This is absolutely necessary as there will be carbon-like build up which is just nothing but excess blue/ water residue . I know it sounds counterproductive but it's just removing the residue left over from the water/blue drying. Repeat this as many times as you want to get the level of bluing that you desire and rinse with cold water not hot or warm.

If you were doing a bolt action or a shotgun make sure to take a brass brush or something of that nature to run down the action to remove that chalky buildup that happens after the rinse cycle. Make make sure to scuff all areas that have received the bluing process before you move to the next application.

It's really easy to do and you can't mess anything up since you can just sand it off and go over it again. It is a lot easier if you disassemble the gun at least take the stock off the barrel. Good luck with your gun I'm sure it will end up looking quite nicely.
 
I’ve used d the aluminum black for about 15 years now and it’s great stuff!
I know I didn't use it a great deal until I started repairing and cleaning folks AR's. They bring them in broke and scratched up. When they come to pick them up they look at thier gun and say it's the same kind but it's not mine, mine was all scratched up. They love it and light up like a Christmas tree when I say that is your gun I just touched it up.
 
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