Glock 30 + Octane 45HD

[Moondog1]

So a couple weeks ago I got a Storm Lake threaded barrel off of here, a Silencerco AC24 Piston, and attempted to shoot a few rounds out of my Octane 45. I used Tula 45... I know blah blah it's awful, can was very tight, I fired five rounds and wound up blowing my end cap out of my suppressor. One of the bullets shed it's jacket and left it near the end of the can. I don't know if it hit the last baffle or what, I'm waiting on silencerco to tell me what they thing happened. I searched and searched for my end cap but couldn't find it. I know everyone says it's tula, but I shot the rest of the lot of ammo on paper and tried to see if it was tumbling with that barrel and everything looked fine. Also, when I shot those 5 rounds out of the Glock 30 when I blew the end cap out, I didn't have a light load or a malfunction on the pistol or any crazy sounds, it was very quiet! I already got the can back from Silencerco, excellent service.

My question is, how do I find out for sure that my stormlake barrel is good to go, my .578x28 AC24 Piston is good to go? Also, should there be anything weird happening just because the Glock 30 is a tiny 45 compared to a G21 or something? Should I measure each baffle? Biggest thing I've shot through it is thousands of rounds of 9mm through it. And if I can't shoot steel case 45 through my G30 + suppressor, I don't think I have an interest in suppressing it. Thanks for any input!
@Quiet Riot Firearms HydroAuto sovietak474u

 

[Moondog1]

bump!

 

[SpeedyR]

I would remove the barrel from the pistol and fit the piston and can on the end and see if you can visually see anything off.

Of the three things that could go wrong (barrel, piston, can, ammo) I would bet on the ammo or threaded barrel being the issue. But no idea other than to shoot a few boxes of non Tula ammo and see if you have any issues, then shoot a few boxes of Tula and see if you have any more jacket separations.

I know for rifles, they have a long rod that you can insert in the chamber and see if there are any issues with hitting baffles, but I've only seen the rods for 223 and 308 (Geissele makes them). Haven't seen one for 45.

 

[Moondog1]

I would remove the barrel from the pistol and fit the piston and can on the end and see if you can visually see anything off.

Of the three things that could go wrong (barrel, piston, can, ammo) I would bet on the ammo or threaded barrel being the issue. But no idea other than to shoot a few boxes of non Tula ammo and see if you have any issues, then shoot a few boxes of Tula and see if you have any more jacket separations.

I know for rifles, they have a long rod that you can insert in the chamber and see if there are any issues with hitting baffles, but I've only seen the rods for 223 and 308 (Geissele makes them). Haven't seen one for 45.

Thanks for the info. I will just thread on the piston and see what I can find out. it did visually look fine before I messed it up the first time but I also wasn't looking too hard for problems.

 

[sovietak474u]

Bring it by qrf if you can . If not get a really long and thick industrial nail. Those are normally perfectly straight . Place it down the barrel and if it’s cockeyed you will see it .

that or just pop one round and after that you will know ... if you can bring it by and I can verify if it’s a limp noodle or not

 

[HydroAuto]

Sorry for the late reply, been thinking about your situation, and while an improperly threaded barrel is certainly a possibility, I'll put that aside for the moment because you purchased it from a reputable manufacturer. I'm leaning more towards this being a combination of things coming together to create problems.

Tilting barrel designs have the barrel moving downward to unlock/eject/feed, and the pivot point is where the barrel passes through the slide near the muzzle. With 'normal' duty-sized pistols the angle of tilt is pretty mild. Meaning that the suppressor decoupler (pistion/spring) doesn't have much work to do. ie: The piston/spring assembly is to allow the mass of the suppressor to be practically de-coupled from the tilting barrel and not impact cycling reliability.

With a subcompact model like the Model 30, the angle of tilt is much more exaggerated which could possibly increase the odds of cycling difficulties. The piston sees quite a bit of angular travel within the piston housing, relatively speaking. (Angular displacement is disastrous at the wrong time/place.)

To see this, take your unloaded pistol, with suppressor mounted, hold it in one hand, and pull on the suppressor with the other hand and wiggle it a little bit. You should see that you can get a little angular movement going between the pistol barrel and suppressor. ie: the axis of bullet travel is no longer a straight line. USUALLY, the bullet travels down the barrel and out the suppressor before the action unlocks and starts tilting, so there aren't any issues.
You can also see it in this slow motion video. FFWD to 0:47
Ref:

However, the piston is only allowed to move independent of the suppressor via the spring and O-ring(s) in the assembly.

For reliable operation, and reduced risk of damaging a suppressor, the piston needs to be clean and lightly lubed to allow free motion and ensure the suppressor returns to a position where its axis is re-aligned with the barrel axis.

My hypothesis is that the piston has gotten fouled in the course of normal use, combined with the exaggerated angular travel and during the subsequent shots the suppressor wasn't able to 'reset' to that sweet spot. A case of stacked tolerances building up to the point where you experience problems.

 

[Control for Smilers]

in for info, i have an octane 45 in jail.

 

[Moondog1]

Bring it by qrf if you can . If not get a really long and thick industrial nail. Those are normally perfectly straight . Place it down the barrel and if it’s cockeyed you will see it .

that or just pop one round and after that you will know ... if you can bring it by and I can verify if it’s a limp noodle or not

I will figure out when I will be down that way and absolutely bring it by! I'm still up in Blairsville. I did pick this can up from QRF though. Yall are awesome!

 

[Moondog1]

Sorry for the late reply, been thinking about your situation, and while an improperly threaded barrel is certainly a possibility, I'll put that aside for the moment because you purchased it from a reputable manufacturer. I'm leaning more towards this being a combination of things coming together to create problems.

Tilting barrel designs have the barrel moving downward to unlock/eject/feed, and the pivot point is where the barrel passes through the slide near the muzzle. With 'normal' duty-sized pistols the angle of tilt is pretty mild. Meaning that the suppressor decoupler (pistion/spring) doesn't have much work to do. ie: The piston/spring assembly is to allow the mass of the suppressor to be practically de-coupled from the tilting barrel and not impact cycling reliability.

With a subcompact model like the Model 30, the angle of tilt is much more exaggerated which could possibly increase the odds of cycling difficulties. The piston sees quite a bit of angular travel within the piston housing, relatively speaking. (Angular displacement is disastrous at the wrong time/place.)

To see this, take your unloaded pistol, with suppressor mounted, hold it in one hand, and pull on the suppressor with the other hand and wiggle it a little bit. You should see that you can get a little angular movement going between the pistol barrel and suppressor. ie: the axis of bullet travel is no longer a straight line. USUALLY, the bullet travels down the barrel and out the suppressor before the action unlocks and starts tilting, so there aren't any issues.
You can also see it in this slow motion video. FFWD to 0:47
Ref:

However, the piston is only allowed to move independent of the suppressor via the spring and O-ring(s) in the assembly.

For reliable operation, and reduced risk of damaging a suppressor, the piston needs to be clean and lightly lubed to allow free motion and ensure the suppressor returns to a position where its axis is re-aligned with the barrel axis.

My hypothesis is that the piston has gotten fouled in the course of normal use, combined with the exaggerated angular travel and during the subsequent shots the suppressor wasn't able to 'reset' to that sweet spot. A case of stacked tolerances building up to the point where you experience problems.

Thank you for taking the time to write and explain all of that to me! The piston was brand new and very clean but that first part of the chamber where the spring and piston reside are not very clean. I will check for angular movement. Just for my understanding, if my threads are straight on my barrel, piston is fine and lubed and moving properly, could that combination just not work correctly(the G30 and Octane 45) due to the short action time and angular travel of the suppressor? Or is it more likely that if it's real dirty and not moving freely(like you said angular travel at the wrong time) that I blew the end cap out due to slow/non traveling piston with the angular movement?

 

[Moondog1]

In case y'all wanted a picture.

This is after I got it back from silencerco 1 week later. I was scared it was going to be crap service from what I've heard. They did a great job. They had to cerakote it too.