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Glock 35/34

DADI03

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I picked up a glock 35 from here and have been going full bubba on it. It came with a 9mm conversion barrel, and while I'm not a 40 hater like most seem to be I would like to keep it a 9mm. I'm putting new parts in it and have heard that sometimes the recoil spring is to hard for a 9mm since it is set for a 40. Should I go ahead and buy a new recoil spring to go with it. If so would a stock Glock 34 spring be compatible with the 35. I'm thinking they have the same frame but I'm not that versed on glocks. Thanks for any info
 
I converted mine and didn't bother swapping out the spring. It's been 99% problem free. Sometimes I will get a FTE about once every 100 rounds, but it's not a big deal to me given my frequency and intensity of use. I am also using an aftermarket barrel and mags - basically doing everything wrong and it's pretty much been a non-issue.
 
What do you mean by after market. And I assure you I've done everything wrong thus far. My barrel is a lone wolf. Will the 35 take regular 9mm mags or are they different. I only have one 9mm mag as of now
 
What do you mean by after market. And I assure you I've done everything wrong thus far. My barrel is a lone wolf. Will the 35 take regular 9mm mags or are they different. I only have one 9mm mag as of now
I am using a ZEV G34 barrel and ETS 9mm mags. G17/34 mags will fit just fine in a 35. I don't think either contributed to the FTE - that's probably from leaving the .40 ejector in the gun or bigger breech face messing stuff up.
 
Here is the shortest explanation I can give:

You only need 9mm mags, conversion barrel, and maybe a lighter recoil spring.

All the gen 3 guns in a given frame size use the same springs. The slides are heavier on the larger calibers. That is how they do it. So, you may need a lighter spring to use on the 9 conversion. G-34 mags will work in the 35. For proper ejection, the conversion barrel is actually bored off center to bring the 9mm case rim closer to the ejector for proper function. The off center bore is very slight and is not noticeable when shooting.

The extractor is the biggest compromise, it works most of the time, but you may have an occasional malfunction. This is because there is not as much 9mm rim caught in the extractor due to its smaller diameter combined with the off center bore of the barrel.
 
I have used a modified factory spring setup for my 9mm conversion. It worked great for me and is simple to make.

Get a new spring assembly from Glock 35. Then take the old one and pull the little tit off of the front end of it. The spring's retaining washer and the spring will come off the rod. I cut 4 coils of the spring and put the assembly back together with the cut end of the spring against the unmolested end of the rod. The tit may not stay put. If it does pop out, just reinstall the rod and spring without the tit and washer. It is a little tougher to do.

I read this first on Matt Burkett's web sight. He used to bo a lot of professional instruction with Glocks.
 
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