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greg vess

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Just thought I would post a pic of these and let people know about them that don't. These are Heymous polishing bits. They are absolutely essential when polishing any kind of metal or just knocking down burrs all you have to do is just vary your Dremel speed. They're made from a high durometer ( hardness dial indicator ) of rubber and have little bits of cutting media scattered through them. They were absolutely essential in knocking down the rough cast parts on the 1911 I just bought. It's a umarex regent r200s stainless steel that's basically made by Tisas. Most of the rough cast parts had all the casting marks on them and were squared off and not smooth and just needed to be shaped up to look good. You could see where they had been putting in a stone tumbler just to knock the slag off and clean them up a bit but it still had a lot of the casting marks on some of the parts. From the tumbling process they also had little nicks where you could tell the tumbling Rock said dinged him up a bit but these sorted those out quite quickly. These are essential in knocking down those burrs and rounding off the edges so everything's nice and smooth and looks uniform in more of a cheap part into a refined part. The great thing is they remove metal but they don't leave sanding marks or heavy gouges you just vary the speed of your Dremel and the pressure you use on the parts you're working with. An absolute godsend when it comes to polishing or just knocking burrs off or rounding off hard sharp edges. You can get them on Amazon anywhere from 8 to 20 bucks depending on the number of pieces. Plus they work wonders when polishing M4 feed and ramps makes that a breeze. After grinding you don't have to go over it with different grids or polishing compounds or any of that noise you just use the bullet shape tips and go at it and it polishes as it removes metal. They are an absolute necessity with working on guns and removing metal very slowly but quickly if you know what I mean. Anyways I just thought I would post a pic you can get them on Amazon just look up Heymous polishing bits. The bullet shaped ones work great on feed ramps they remove just enough metal and leave a very clean polished surface when you're done. If you're into working on guns or anything like they're an absolute must. I first used them when I was polishing valve covers, throttle bodies, belt tensioners and any other aluminum piece on an LS series aluminum engine. They work wonders and thought I would share this piece of information with you so you don't have to sand from one grit down to the other just to get a refined surface. Once you remove the metal you need to remove just hit them with one of these and they'll polish it right up. No more of that polishing compound slinging all over your clothes and over everything else that's around. Give him a shot I think you'll like them.
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I just took a pic of a quick knockdown of an already rounded off part. But I just took the bit and ran over it real quick. You can see not a whole lot of metal is removed but you can see where the bit did its thing. All it takes is a little 1000 grit or finer sand paper and you hit it a couple of licks and it takes those little bit marks right out.
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Yep…I have used them to port and polish heads/valve train components on hot rods before also . They work great for all that stuff ! :)
 
Yep…I have used them to port and polish heads/valve train components on hot rods before also . They work great for all that stuff ! :)
Oh I used to Port heads when I was a youngun. But then for the street I realized that a little rough surface in the manifold in the head was essential for atomizing fuel and actually helped torque. For all out drag racing though smooth ports are it. Also there needs to be a slight variation in the size of the ports of the manifold in the head. The ports of the head need to be slightly smaller than the ports of a manifold. I forgot what they call that but there's a little name for that and I can't remember it right off the top of my head. A completely ported manifold can cause fuel to puddle up in the plenum area if it doesn't have a rough surface. Had to learn that the hard way. I also learned with street racing that that rough surface in the manifold was essential to atomizing fuel. It wasn't so much the head and it was the manifold once the speed of the air fuel mixture gets up it's only a short distance from the opening of the port in the head to the cylinder a combustion chamber. I also learned at a very early age that smaller longer runners are absolutely essential for a street car. Low in torque is all about Port velocity and if you get too much CFM running through the head it slows down Port velocity and can hurt low in torque greatly. For all out race machines that live between 3 to $7,000 RPMs it doesn't make that much difference the short fat runners are okay because you're looking for all all the air you can cram into one cylinder at high RPMs but download that can really hurt you. They used to say that a little back pressure on the engine was good. It's not so much the back pressure on the engine that's good it's actually slowing the velocity down of the gases which in turn restores low in torque. Too many guys that run Street machines think that everything has to be bigger and better and that's simply not true. Long narrow runners on the street is the key to success when running from street light to street light. But you are exactly right they are good for finishing up light pork work at the end
 
The ones I used when I polished my LS1 and my Trans Am were black. So I was kind of hesitant to get the green ones but I went ahead and ordered them anyways because I'd used all the ones that I had used before. But I just got these in the mail today in there exactly what I was looking for. They have a funny name but they work great. Especially when you're trying to do something for aesthetics. You don't want something that's too excessive or abrasive rather so that you don't have deep gouges you have to sand out but these are perfect all you have to worry about is the amount of pressure. And the amount of pressure is directly correlates with how much materials being taken off. Then you just jack up your Dremel bit speed and use a lighter touch and they polish they're actually The Best of both worlds if you think about it.
 
Except for today's newer engines it doesn't make much difference because the injector is so close to the combustion chamber. Then there's boosted applications which don't make any difference at all. You can use the run of the mill cast head and get the same effect no matter what. You could use a 215 CFM flowing head are 225 CFM flowing head on an LS1 or LS2 and it wouldn't make any difference than if you used to stock head for boosted applications. There is absolutely no change when it comes to boost.
 
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