HB Industries Gas Block Aligner

[WinstonSmith]

Anybody ever used this to align their gas block?

I just did and it doesnt look like it should be aligned at all. When you flip the barrel is the pin supposed to disappear into the gas block or go halfway down?

 

[Jblue]

Pics help

 

[WinstonSmith]

Have you ever used the hb pins to align the gas block?

Pics help

 

[Wallace's]

If referring to this stupid trash product? Pass....the owner copy and pastes his same lame ass sales pitch all over FB gun groups and has been banned from soooooooo many. Probably the top 3 worst product available for at home builders.

https://hbindustries.net/store/shop/ar15-gas-block-aligner-5-56mm/

Problems:

• Dimpling barrels is not even part of their video, which is the correct solution to gas block alignment.
• Nothing about their method provides mechanical assurance to keep the fasteners in place (no dimple to stop rotation/shifting, no mention of knurled tips to lock them in place
• No use of ANY 271 or 272 red loctite on the fasteners
• The "torque" he shows being applied to the fasteners wouldn't last one mag dump before they loosened and the gas block rotates
• Clamp on style gas block are trash
• The FSB he removed wasn't even pinned, thus providing in inaccurate depiction of what is required to swap a FSB with a low profile gas block (No possible taper pin grooves that could interfere with proper gas block alignment and set screw placement)
• This method can allow the gas block to become canted and interfere with narrow rails as the port size in a gas block is usual about twice the size of an average gas port
• Solution in search of a problem

The correct answer is a dimple jig. SLR sells them for various gas block journal sizes (.750" and .625" being the most common) for just $30...+ a 5/32 jobber bit ($3)

https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=579

This method ensures you have a mechanical lock and alignment of the gas block as the set screw will "self align" itself to the gas port (Dimple is indexed off the gas port). Use of 272 Loctite is recommended for the set screws as well. Its rated to 450 degrees and will withstand the temperatures of GB will see and hold the set screws in place. They can later be removed using heat from a MAPP gas torch.

You are looking to achieve this style dimple directly under the gas port:

This is the style set screws you should use (SOLGW, BCM, etc....gas blocks come with this style screw already)

Red 272 is recommended, although SOLGW uses the more common 271. I prefer 272 as that is what BCM uses and is rated 150 higher than 271...

 

[WinstonSmith]

If referring to this stupid trash product? Pass....the owner copy and pastes his same lame ass sales pitch all over FB gun groups and has been banned from soooooooo many. Probably the top 3 worst product available for at home builders.

https://hbindustries.net/store/shop/ar15-gas-block-aligner-5-56mm/

Problems:

• Dimpling barrels is not even part of their video, which is the correct solution to gas block alignment.
• Nothing about their method provides mechanical assurance to keep the fasteners in place (no dimple to stop rotation/shifting, no mention of knurled tips to lock them in place
• No use of ANY 271 or 272 red loctite on the fasteners
• The "torque" he shows being applied to the fasteners wouldn't last one mag dump before they loosened and the gas block rotates
• Clamp on style gas block are trash
• The FSB he removed wasn't even pinned, thus providing in inaccurate depiction of what is required to swap a FSB with a low profile gas block (No possible taper pin grooves that could interfere with proper gas block alignment and set screw placement)
• This method can allow the gas block to become canted and interfere with narrow rails as the port size in a gas block is usual about twice the size of an average gas port
• Solution in search of a problem

The correct answer is a dimple jig. SLR sells them for various gas block journal sizes (.750" and .625" being the most common) for just $30...+ a 5/32 jobber bit ($3)

https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=579

This method ensures you have a mechanical lock and alignment of the gas block as the set screw will "self align" itself to the gas port (Dimple is indexed off the gas port). Use of 272 Loctite is recommended for the set screws as well. Its rated to 450 degrees and will withstand the temperatures of GB will see and hold the set screws in place. They can later be removed using heat from a MAPP gas torch.

You are looking to achieve this style dimple directly under the gas port:

View attachment 1821685

This is the style set screws you should use (SOLGW, BCM, etc....gas blocks come with this style screw already)

View attachment 1821687

Red 272 is recommended, although SOLGW uses the more common 271. I prefer 272 as that is what BCM uses and is rated 150 higher than 271...
View attachment 1821688

Wow. Tell me how you really feel . I've never found it necessary to dimple a gas block and the clamp on adjustable block has worked out well for me in the past. I've found the solution to my issue now. Just got a little frustrated this afternoon when messing with it.

 

[MegaFan]

Anybody ever used this to align their gas block?

I just did and it doesnt look like it should be aligned at all. When you flip the barrel is the pin supposed to disappear into the gas block or go halfway down?

Yes, it worked as advertised for me. When you flip, it should slide into the gas block but still remain in the barrel gas port, keeping the two aligned. I only used on a low profile gas block so I could see where a taller block might let the pin move further out and not maintain the alignment. However, as Wallace's stated, the SLR product is fantastic for a dimpled option. But, if you use a clamp on block (and there are lots of them out there), the dimple jig doesn't help because you can't see or screw into the dimple.

 

[Wallace's]

Let me make it clear. Those who are reading and think clamp on gas blocks are ok. They suck and are meant for light use/low grade commercial guns. I dont care if JP makes one. I have had to replace too many of those things after they loosen/rotate under any kind of moderate use to ever consider recommending them. That, and most, not all, clamp on garbage is too big to fit under most FF rails. The "accuracy" claims you see from "stressing" a barrel with pinning or set screws is just that, claims. Like receiver lapping, no one has ever quantified the claim, and many pinned and or set screw barrels have been proven to show sub-MOA, many time .5-.75 MOA results with a quality shooter and ammo.


BCM gas block is only $45, and dimple jig $35 after bit. Don't cheap out on a critical component that causes a large majority of home build malfunctions.

 

[WinstonSmith]

Yes, it worked as advertised for me. When you flip, it should slide into the gas block but still remain in the barrel gas port, keeping the two aligned. I only used on a low profile gas block so I could see where a taller block might let the pin move further out and not maintain the alignment. However, as Wallace's stated, the SLR product is fantastic for a dimpled option. But, if you use a clamp on block (and there are lots of them out there), the dimple jig doesn't help because you can't see or screw into the dimple.

Did the whole pin slide into the gas port with no, or very little, of the pin showing in the barrel when you looked down it?

 

[WinstonSmith]

Let me make it clear. Those who are reading and think clamp on gas blocks are ok. They suck and are meant for light use/low grade commercial guns. I dont care if JP makes one. I have had to replace too many of those things after they loosen/rotate under any kind of moderate use to ever consider recommending them. That, and most, not all, clamp on garbage is too big to fit under most FF rails. The "accuracy" claims you see from "stressing" a barrel with pinning or set screws is just that, claims. Like receiver lapping, no one has ever quantified the claim, and many pinned and or set screw barrels have been proven to show sub-MOA, many time .5-.75 MOA results with a quality shooter and ammo.


BCM gas block is only $45, and dimple jig $35 after bit. Don't cheap out on a critical component that causes a large majority of home build malfunctions.

I hear your opinion. Have taken note. If I run into any issues the JP gas block can be pinned and I will do so. It fits under the rail very well.

 

[MegaFan]

Wallace's , I am confused about the "clamp on" gas block discussion as the original question didn't mention it, unless I missed something. I would also say that not all OEMs dimple, as there are other acceptable and proven methods, including just the use of the flush cup set screws. As I stated above, I also routinely dimple, but not necessarily for any grip advantage as much as just for proper alignment. Read what Faxon says, and why they don't dimple.

https://faxonfirearms.com/blog/frequently-asked-questions-does-faxon-dimple-their-barrels/

WinstonSmith - I could easily see the pin so I am guessing that almost half was visible, whick made it easy to snap it off, allowing the two pieces to drop. Again, after buying the dimpling jig, I now routinely dimple mainly for the ease of alignment and not having to continue buying/replacing the break-off pins.