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Help Id this old Smith?

MSAA

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Ser#80283
.32 W.C.F CTG

IMG_2793 (002).jpg
 
Not an expert, but I will try and help.
The SCSW indicates that your 32-20 is a Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change and shows your serial number as shipped in the broad range of years from from 1915-1940.
78,983 were produced between 1915-1940. Heat treated cylinders start at serial number 81287. Since this procedure stated in 1919, yours is probably between 1915 to 1919 maybe?
Since you posted it is a .32WCF CTG, I will assume that you read that off the right side of the barrel. A name change on the .32WCF happened in the '20's and it became known as the .32-20. Same cartridge, just a name change.

To see if this revolver is numbers matching, serial numbers are found on the butt, cylinder face, behind the star extractor, on the yoke and on the barrel flat. All areas will have the same number if the revolver is numbers matching.
 
Not an expert, but I will try and help.
The SCSW indicates that your 32-20 is a Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change and shows your serial number as shipped in the broad range of years from from 1915-1940.
78,983 were produced between 1915-1940. Heat treated cylinders start at serial number 81287. Since this procedure stated in 1919, yours is probably between 1915 to 1919 maybe?
Since you posted it is a .32WCF CTG, I will assume that you read that off the right side of the barrel. A name change on the .32WCF happened in the '20's and it became known as the .32-20. Same cartridge, just a name change.

To see if this revolver is numbers matching, serial numbers are found on the butt, cylinder face, behind the star extractor, on the yoke and on the barrel flat. All areas will have the same number if the revolver is numbers matching.
Thank you. Great info!
 
I am pretty sure I have an old lever gun in .32WCF at the farm.

It is in parts now, was rough when I got it early last year, it soaked in oil/ ATF fluid for a long time.
 
No problem
Hi just received the pistol and ser# is 90283
all matching, star ejector,butt,cylinder face & barrel flat, however the yoke & frame #'s are 56118
I did not think the ser# was put on the yoke on these early models but Im not sure
Cylinder release is a little wobbly up & down and the cylinder has a 1/8" of play +-

on the barrel flat there is a "B" first then a space then 90283
finish is mostly gone
 
Serial number 90283 still puts it in the 1915 to 1940 broad range, but now it is after S&W started heat treating, so definitely after 1919, but how far into the 1920's or so, I could not begin to guess. The only way to be sure would to get a factory letter from S&W. I do not know the turn around time on those right now, but it may take six months. The cost is I believe, $100. I am not sure it would be worth getting the history on it unless there is a family connection. Your decision.
The "B" on the barrel flat, is it in a diamond, <B>, or just the letter "B"? If it is just the letter B, that mean the finish was originally blued. If the B was in a diamond, that would most likely mean a barrel replacement at the factory.
Don't worry about the yoke and frame serial number if the butt, the extractor star, the cylinder face and the barrel flat all have the same serial number.
I am not surprised that it is a bit wobbly, and there is play in the cylinder. It is a ninety plus year old revolver and who knows how well, or how little it was maintained. I would have some concerns about firing it, only because of the play in the cylinder. A good gunsmith can check it out and make sure it is safe to fire. If you every intend to fire it, or sell it, I would definitely take it to a gunsmith and make sure it is safe to fire. Just my opinion, and what do I know?
 
I almost forgot again. SCSW shows that the grips should be checkered, not smooth. However, I have seen grips, supposedly from that era, that were smooth. Take the grips off, look on the inside of the right grip panel to see if the serial number is written in pencil on the grip panel. Check the left grip panel as well. I would use a bright light to check because it may be very faint. If the serial number is there, those are definitely the grips that came with the gun. If the serial number is not there, it does not mean they are not original. It just means you cannot verify that fact.
 
I did take the panels off and looked and didn’t see anything
I have to look again a little more closely
what would you guesstimate an approximate value Assuming grips are original or not?
 
It is so difficult to put a value on these old Smiths. The cartridge is an outdated one, the gun may or may not be in usable condition, the finish is nearly gone, according to you, and you do not have the any original accessories with it. Original grips would add value to the gun, but not enough to make a huge difference.
Since I have not seen the gun, I would guess, and it is only a guess, that the value on the gun would be between $175 and $325. Now, it is entirely possible that I have missed the value on this piece by a significant margin. The value is just my opinion, and what the heck do I know?
 
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