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Help Needed on Trail Camera Selection!

Thanks all this is good stuff. Now switching gears a little bit... If wanted to cover 200 acres how many cameras do you think I should set out to get decent coverage?
I would do 4 we do about 25 on 2000 which we run 6 troughs all year which we will get a picture in Aug and Sept. of all the bucks
 
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Browning strike force day and night
 
Update for V.V.,

Looked at the pics on my new trail camera... Stealth cam FX12... the pics that weren't of me fiddling with the camera came out great...daylight shots are nice and clear, the night photos were cool...got three pics of a doe last night 10 feet outside my bedroom window... 5 rabbits so far, probably the same 1-2... So far so good... put the card back in and will check again in a few more nights...

HTH,
Paul
 
I use Browning. You will get lots of good advice here I am sure on different brands, but a couple of things:

  • Don't get hung up on megapixels (Most TC camera makers simply up-res from the lowest setting so you actually aren't getting better resolution, you are just getting a larger photo. Thats why you will notice that if zoom in, you still can't tell if that son-of-a-b is a 8 or 10 point because the resolution is not there. I run all mine on the lowest MP setting. It also makes them easier to download.

  • Trigger time is probably the most important thing you will look for. Its the difference in seeing the rear end of a headless deer and seeing the buck of your dreams.

  • If you have an area where you will need a longer throw, avoid the "blackout" models. They will be subpar at night.

  • Use Lithium batteries. They are worth it not only for the battery life, but for keeping your camera alive when you forget and store them with the batteries in the off season.
 
I use Browning. You will get lots of good advice here I am sure on different brands, but a couple of things:

  • Don't get hung up on megapixels (Most TC camera makers simply up-res from the lowest setting so you actually aren't getting better resolution, you are just getting a larger photo. Thats why you will notice that if zoom in, you still can't tell if that son-of-a-b is a 8 or 10 point because the resolution is not there. I run all mine on the lowest MP setting. It also makes them easier to download.

  • Trigger time is probably the most important thing you will look for. Its the difference in seeing the rear end of a headless deer and seeing the buck of your dreams.

  • If you have an area where you will need a longer throw, avoid the "blackout" models. They will be subpar at night.

  • Use Lithium batteries. They are worth it not only for the battery life, but for keeping your camera alive when you forget and store them with the batteries in the off season.

Thanks for the advice. I have heard good things about the Browning cameras both on here and from the guy that owns the property next to me where I hunt. Can you expand on your third bullet? What is "throw" and what is a "blackout" model? I haven't bought a camera in years.
 
Thanks for the advice. I have heard good things about the Browning cameras both on here and from the guy that owns the property next to me where I hunt. Can you expand on your third bullet? What is "throw" and what is a "blackout" model? I haven't bought a camera in years.
If the area is large, when it's night you will need the LEDs to produce as much light as possible. Most camera companies make less visible "black" IR LED models that are designed to be low signature. Because of this, they do not produce as much light at night. I usually leave those to small areas or to watch my tree stand if I've got a thief around. Otherwise, I prefer the standard IR models.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
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