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Help with finishing garand stock

Use only 100% tung oil, not the "tung oil finish" products sold in stores.

The only place that still sells real tung oil these days is

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/.

It is what raw stocks were finished with by the military. Blo was used in the field for touchup.

Good, I will use this on the new stock. Thanks.

View attachment 1523931 View attachment 1523932 View attachment 1523933 View attachment 1523934 I too, have had good results with the Watco Danish oil, but it does not soak in well on “stainable” wood filler, maybe nothing does—-used on my FN Commercial Mauser that had some damage. I used Dark Wallnut; it is not as dark as I had hoped, but it does match the color guide on the lable.

The dark repaire lines are Acroglass and unstainable. Wood filler was used to try a rebuild/clean up some checkering. The stock had been repaired years ago after breaking in half at the wrist. A great uncle fell from a boat while exiting with it and tried to catch himself with the gun stock.

Available at Lowes, dries fast, no gloss.
 
View attachment 1523931 View attachment 1523932 View attachment 1523933 View attachment 1523934 I too, have had good results with the Watco Danish oil, but it does not soak in well on “stainable” wood filler, maybe nothing does—-used on my FN Commercial Mauser that had some damage. I used Dark Wallnut; it is not as dark as I had hoped, but it does match the color guide on the lable.

The dark repaire lines are Acroglass and unstainable. Wood filler was used to try a rebuild/clean up some checkering. The stock had been repaired years ago after breaking in half at the wrist. A great uncle fell from a boat while exiting with it and tried to catch himself with the gun stock.

Available at Lowes, dries fast, no gloss.

That stock looks really great!! Thsnks.
 
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I used a scotch bright pad, citrus cleaner, and hot water for the stripping.

I got the idea from a you tube video.
 
I used BLO on an M1 carbine stock that I stripped the varnish finish. Sanded between coats and put it on light to avoid getting a sheen. Looks awesome now after 12 coats and 2 months.

There is nothing fast about making it look right.
 
If your stock is one of the new CMP stocks, you will want to check the fit of the stock first and adjust as necessary. Check the CMP forums for a lot of info. If they are using the same stain they used to use, you will need to strip it off or new finishes will not penetrate into the wood.

I mixed 2 color stains to simulate the color I wanted, i think it was a walnut and one with a little more red. Stain the stock and allow it to dry completely. I hen used Boiled Linseed Oil over that, but you have to really rub it in good and not leave any excess on the surface. Do multiple coats allowing it to dry completely between coats.

This is how I finished the CMP stock on my CMP Special.

There is much info on this on the CMP forum, with various changes in the method, and from many guys with lots more experience than me.

FYI, pure linseed oil can be found in health food stores as flax seed oil.
 
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