What I want to know is how do you choose a caliber?
I have a 1903A3 action and stock and plan to make a Golden Era style sporter. Before anyone goes off on me for bubbaing a rare piece of military history, I would be happy to trade this unmolested action for one that has been drilled and tapped.
I have yet to decide on a caliber. My intended use for this rifle is the occasional shooter but mainly as just something to own. I cannot afford a Sedgley or a Nieder so I will make my own in their style. With that in mind caliber choice should not be consuming so much time. Though it has been fun and informative researching it.
I do not like recoil. With that said the number of rounds ever likely to be fired consecutively should make it a consideration but not the deciding factor. I would like something period correct. I think a wildcat would be interesting. That of course raises the cost of the project. I want an accurate cartridge. That whole interesting rifle thing. I don't want to have to make changes to the bolt face. Again a cost consideration.
So I could leave it 30-06 but wheres the fun in that? One of the -06 variants, 25,6.6.5, all real possibilities. The 6.5mm has a lot of good bullets to choose from to help get an accurate load worked up. The 22-250 a real hot rod, and while I don't hunt I think the Golden Age rifles were hunters so I am leaning toward the .244 or as it was know later the 6mm Remington. The 6mms low recoil accuracy and ability to be used on up to med size game makes it a real contender. The .257 Roberts in it's Ackely improved configuration is a strong contender. While not as good a cartridge for game as other 6.5mm's the .256 Newton has history and an interesting story.
Now if I were not looking for a period correct cartridge I would go with the .6MM BR.When I build my F-class rifle that may be the cartridge for it.
So the research goes on.
I bought a lot of Precision Shooting back issues and was reading an article about the comparison of cartridges based on capacity to bore size(overbore), Neck length to caliber ratio and turbulence point.( The point along the bores axis that powder grains are directed to by shoulder angle). Now this is a 2001 issue and I realize that sometimes some new information comes along to make old info meaningless.
The articles author suggested that a long neck. One that is 100%+ of caliber and a Turbelence point of less than 100% meaning the TP falls within the neck of the case and not in the barrel. Stating that the TP inside the neck cuts down on bore erosion.
Are these factors that any of you consider when making a new caliber choice?
I have a 1903A3 action and stock and plan to make a Golden Era style sporter. Before anyone goes off on me for bubbaing a rare piece of military history, I would be happy to trade this unmolested action for one that has been drilled and tapped.
I have yet to decide on a caliber. My intended use for this rifle is the occasional shooter but mainly as just something to own. I cannot afford a Sedgley or a Nieder so I will make my own in their style. With that in mind caliber choice should not be consuming so much time. Though it has been fun and informative researching it.
I do not like recoil. With that said the number of rounds ever likely to be fired consecutively should make it a consideration but not the deciding factor. I would like something period correct. I think a wildcat would be interesting. That of course raises the cost of the project. I want an accurate cartridge. That whole interesting rifle thing. I don't want to have to make changes to the bolt face. Again a cost consideration.
So I could leave it 30-06 but wheres the fun in that? One of the -06 variants, 25,6.6.5, all real possibilities. The 6.5mm has a lot of good bullets to choose from to help get an accurate load worked up. The 22-250 a real hot rod, and while I don't hunt I think the Golden Age rifles were hunters so I am leaning toward the .244 or as it was know later the 6mm Remington. The 6mms low recoil accuracy and ability to be used on up to med size game makes it a real contender. The .257 Roberts in it's Ackely improved configuration is a strong contender. While not as good a cartridge for game as other 6.5mm's the .256 Newton has history and an interesting story.
Now if I were not looking for a period correct cartridge I would go with the .6MM BR.When I build my F-class rifle that may be the cartridge for it.
So the research goes on.
I bought a lot of Precision Shooting back issues and was reading an article about the comparison of cartridges based on capacity to bore size(overbore), Neck length to caliber ratio and turbulence point.( The point along the bores axis that powder grains are directed to by shoulder angle). Now this is a 2001 issue and I realize that sometimes some new information comes along to make old info meaningless.
The articles author suggested that a long neck. One that is 100%+ of caliber and a Turbelence point of less than 100% meaning the TP falls within the neck of the case and not in the barrel. Stating that the TP inside the neck cuts down on bore erosion.
Are these factors that any of you consider when making a new caliber choice?
