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I didn't see your post. I usually use cmmg lower builders kit. It contains just the pins, springs, mag release and bolt catch and safety and doesn't have a fire control group. I learned in my high performance engine building that there are only a few spring manufacturers in the US. The pins can't be all that different. I usually use a different trigger so I don't need one in the kit any way. I do have a seekins bolt catch I can sell you for cheap. I actually have a lot of lower parts if you interested.
For the bolt carrier group I use a DD for my 6.8 builds. They are 200 bucks but worth it. For 5.56 I like to use a nickle boron, WMD, Fail Zero, or any of the high line gun vendors are a good choice it just depends on how much you want to spend. Core15 makes a great BCG.
For a trigger I like the ALG ACT trigger with reduced power springs. It gives about a 4 lb. pull which is good for home defense and just general shooting. If you are going all out target performance then you might want a drop in unit or an adjustable one. I use JP enterprises and adjust it myself.
I like the Raptor ambi charging handles. Expensive but comfortable to use and look nice. BCM is also a good choice.
I like the Spikes H2 buffer adj. stock kit. I always use a little heavier buffer to soften the blow. I have never had a problem with a build whether it be a carbine, mid length or rifle length with that kit. It's 90 bucks but it has a coating on the inside of the tube and the buffer has media in it that quiets the weight bearings inside. The are just balls, usually three with two the same weight an one heavier one in the middle.
If you want to splurge on some of the lower parts you can discard or save the mag release and bolt catch and opt for the billet ones. They are more refined and a better finish. The also goes for the safety. You can opt for a ambi safety. There are plenty to choose from. I just used a short throw ( means it only goes to a 45 degree angle when in the fire position instead of all the way to a 90 degree angle. It doesn't point all the way up to the little bullet engraving). I used a stainless one and it feels so smooth. I can't remember which manufacture but I will check and let you know. You can really feel the difference between the one I used and a mil spec unit. I just feels so much more fluid and easier to operate.
For a grip I like to use the Houge over molded grip or the Magpul MOE+. They both have a rubber coating and feel real comfortable. The Houge has finger grooves and the Magpul is just has a straight front. Either one is a gives me a better purchase on the grip.
The forward assist is something you will hardly ever use so a milspec is ok. I used a Radian Raw Titanium since I went with all Titanium parts on my lower and upper for this build. You can get all Titanium parts with a black finish but I warn you I went overboard with that on this current build and spent a small fortune on that crap. It looks cool but not cool enough for what I spent. That sh*t is high dollar. I think I have at least 350 or more dollars on all the external lower parts and the upper dust cover and forward assist. Just to give you an example the dust cover and forward assist was 120 bucks. It's light and strong and looks cool enough but I don't recommend it. Just for sake of what I spent. I kicked myself in the teeth on this build. I do like the take down pins I bought though. They are extended and have a little raised button to pull them out easier.
If there is anything I left out let me know. You can text me for quicker info @ 404-437-9592.
Seekins and Rainier Arms have a good selection to choose from but if you find something you like on Rainier look at a few other places. They carry real good parts but sometime they are a bit over priced on some items. Rainier Arms does carry some of the best barrels I have ever used. They are costly but worth the money on paper.
You have my number feel free to call are text for any info that I left out. I have used one of every thing there is to be had except for PSA I don't use them for nothing. Except if they ever get the FN HF barrels back in stock. If I choose to go with that type of barrel. I am right in the middle of building a billet 6.8 and upgrading a 1911 right now so I am still shopping myself. We can go through it together if you like.
 
I will be looking for a BCG, Charging handle and barrel at the beginning of next month when I get a fresh load of play money. I will let you know what I go with. I am entertaining the option of Nickle Boron for the BCG. However, it will take a team of mules to drag me away from Daniel Defense for that.
 
I am all for advice but part of the fun of building an AR is researching the things you want that fit your exact use case. You should be able to say, "I chose this because...." for nearly every part on the gun, not because someone told you to. You will then end up with a weapon system that is perfectly tailored for Tyler and not anyone else.
 
For precision varmint shooting I lean on my most accurate .22 caliber rifles. .223 in a mid range varmint round "poodle shooter".

If I was to build an AR .223 precision varmint rifle the barrel and bolt are the heart and the ammo the lungs of the build. I'd reload and find out what it likes best.

Shilen makes a package deal with the Wylde chamber. It's safe for .223 and 5.56 ammo but tighter than 5.56 chamber cut that is drop in and torque to spec. They have been making barrels a long time and this package has been around a long time as well.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...service-rifle-hbar-contour-20-stainless-steel

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