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Is Bullseye all I need?

Some cases are longer, some are thicker, some are cleaner? If the expansion die goes in that first time, it'll do the job.

I like bevel base bullets. You don't have expand the case mouth as much to get them easily started. You're also not working the brass as much, which should translate into better chambering and longer case life.

Since you're new at this, and many handgun calibers are sold with nickeled brass I'll also mention that while being nice looking, they don't tend to have a very long service life.

The nickel is harder, and doesn't take to well to being shot and sized many times before its hardness leads to cracks. Nickel being harder is also just plain harder to work with in general.

Trimming and chamfering nickel rifle cases ain't fun at all. I had one RCBS .243 rifle die that was scratched from a nickel bur. The burs shouldn't be an issue with modern carbide pistol dies, as they are much harder than steel rifle dies.

Any way enough on the nickel? If you're going to be loading handgun rounds the method you're using now is great! But it is very slow when doing more than a box or so it would become tedious for me.

I pretty much use a similar method to yours, weighing each charge for my hunting and target rifle loads. I load these usually in batches of 50. I load handgun stuff usually in batches of 100 or more, and the auto disk is a real time saver. As I've mentioned before, I had a Little Dandy from RCBS prior to finding the Lee measure. It worked great too, but it's still a separate step.

I won't encourage you to do anything that you're not comfort doing, but I can say that I wouldn't take $1000.00 for Lee measure if I knew that I couldn't get another.

Thanks chuckdog! It's great to be able to tap into the experience of people like you on the forum.
 
Sorry for the half and missing words above, but I looked up and realized I was going to be late for an appointment with a client near Lakewood this morning.

You get the gist though. You know you can always charge the case and pour it in your pan to verify charge weights then funnel it back.

I'm anal, to the point of being ridiculous at times, but I've used the Lee's enough with the powders I've recommended that I trust it(them) to work.

I have a couple of digital scales too. Occasionally I'll zero the scale with an empty case. Charge the case, then weigh it. You'd be amazed at how consistent these measures are.

A small 2/10 variance ain't really anything to worry about when using most powders in the charge ranges that I normally use in .38 Sp, .38 Super 9mm, 45 acp and .45 Colt. I use a lot of Universal, and it meters very reliably. The ball types are near perfect.

Once you get into loading powders like W296/H110 in .44 mag, .454 Casull and other big bore magnums, those one or two tenths variances are really meaningless. I have the double disk kit installed for these larger volume powder calibers and they work great.

I definitely recommend moving at the pace you're comfortable with. If I have doubt, I throw it out. I'm glad to see you being cautious. Way too many folks jump into loading with little knowledge, and even less caution.

If I can assist you with anything, holler anytime. If I ain't got the answer, I'll try to point you to someone that does. CD
 
I also use the auto disk and I dont even double check charges. I loaded something like 1400 9mm rounds once in one sitting and checked charges at 100 700 and 1000 . They were all consistent. I havent checked a charge since and that was two yrs ago.
 
I also use the auto disk and I dont even double check charges. I loaded something like 1400 9mm rounds once in one sitting and checked charges at 100 700 and 1000 . They were all consistent. I havent checked a charge since and that was two yrs ago.

X2 - a "Top of the List" Performer as well as a "Best Buy" ... Just make certain that you get the PRO model.
Its only weakness is that it is limited to low volume in rifle charges ... but pretty much covers any pistol loading that you would ever want.

However, I did a "Mod" to one of the disks (reamed out the "hole"), stacked it under another disk (double disk option) to achieve a 48 Grain load for my favorite .308 loading.
 
a_l_a_n,

If you like the load and it does what you want, then use it.

It appears that your concerns are that you could double charge with it and have variations if using a powder measure.

Double charging, as a problem, is cured by a correct and rigid loading process.

I'm not going to give you step by step instructions. You can and will build a redundant cycle in your process.
I find loading one round at a time a pain in the back side. Process them in a group, charging them followed by seating the bullet with no other activities or breaks between these to operations. A progressive press both makes this all but mandatory and an 'it can't happen' as you have to stop some time. I use an offset 'O' press that could well be older than you. I charge brass in loading blocks, set bullets into the mouth of each casing (if flat base, flip them over) as I go. One 'chunk' to charge, set a bullet, next case to charge and the same. The set process precludes the probability of a double charge.
The point: It is the process or lack of uniformity that could give you a double charge or no charge.

The use of a powder measure and batch loading makes the loading process much faster and less tedious. Thus more enjoyable.

I batch load most everything. Exceptions being some specialty loads (cut off 303 British brass, packed with waxed shot over and under a cardboard wad shot in a 44 mag and other weird stuff like that). I used a Lee threw the die disk charging method when loading 9MMs for my brother (lead, light to medium loads for practicing) and lead play/practice round for my 40S&W's. As these are not close to being hot loadings, I feel very safe using the disk measurement system. I use 231 for both of these. I have a very old powder measurer that I volume measure 231 for lead .44s, .45s and 748 for 5.56/223s and 7.62/308s. These too are not 'hot' loads.
Yet for my business loadings for .40s, 5.56/223s, 7.62/308s and 30-06s, .375H&H and jacketed .44s, they all get weighed. Some because the loadings are very close the hottest safe loads or to meet the precision that those loads demand.
The point: For middle of the road loads, any actual variations will be minimal and have little discernible effect. IF your are loading at or close to the high end of the loads spectrum, weigh each load.

I understand your desire to only have to stock one type of powder and want a better and more usable one. I think that 'Bullseye' is harder to meter and a little dirtier. As your are loading for a short barrel, a faster powder may/should be more efficient for your use. 231/HP38 isn't that far up the list (or is that down the list?) in burning speed and meters well. Your choice. For a 2 or 3 inch barrel, I wouldn't go with 2400. It has it's place and does an excellent job of it, heavier bullets, longer barrels, mag primers.

Always error on the side of safety, be safe and enjoy.

OSOK
 
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