Looking for some advice on gun restoration and bluing techniques, any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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ISO: Advice on bluing techniques
- Thread starter Archie1911
- Start date
if you want the finished product to look good, take it to a skilled gunsmith...you will be doing that after you mess it up it will simply be cheaper if you go that route first 
Warm the metal. Have fun, be proud...
It was once a sticky for those so inclined and interested.
https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/hot-bluing-tips-and-pics.630699/#post-3219252
https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/ruger-mark-ii-blue.606405/#post-3097804
https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/t...he-blind-hog-recipe-updated-pics-pg-4.221114/
https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/t...reat-with-factory-results.146792/#post-847731
https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/dads-water-damaged-colt.87465/
Thank you for all the updates. But how would you apply this to a larger piece such as a shotgun barrel
A large tank would need to be constructed or purchased. $56 https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...on-tanks/black-iron-bluing-tank-prod1062.aspx
An adjustable heat source-gas burners and a sturdy frame purchased or constucted-you don't want it to tip and spill hot lye salts as severe injury can occur.
Enough salts would need to be mixed to cover the barrel the a couple of inches and you don't want it resting on the bottom.
I have a long tank but making a frame and gas burner system has been low on my project list for about 2 years as it sets in my shop.
I suspect that at least initially, the start up cost would come close to having a gunsmith who blues steel do this for you. However, just one more barrel being blued, much of the cost has already been made as the salts will last for a few bluing jobs and you're spending money on gas.
Welded barrels, sights, double barrels, some worry the welds will weaken. I personally have not seen nor heard this with these lower temp. lye salts and guns produced post 1950's. Really old guns pre-1900's I wouldn't chance it and it would likely destroy any collector value.
As in a lot of processes, surface preparation is important to the end product. Don't let anyone buff it to death though, so many Lugers ruined that way, with every sharp edge blurred !
This is the most critical step. Removing metal is easy. Putting back on afterwards is much more complicated and costly.
It's easy to get focused on getting a brilliant shine then realize you worn the markings nearly off.
Post #19
On u tube, CandRsenal Anvil has a good tutorial on rust bluing -- An easier method for home shop.
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