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Jeep YJ door internals

Dundee

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Have just put a hardtop on a YJ. Tryin to fit full doors.

Drivers side door loosened the hinges, got the door shut, tightened the torx bolts back up on the hinges, perfect. The passenger full door had been painted, thick an bad, straight over the hinges an torx heads. Dug out and picked out the paint in the torx head, having broken four T40 attachements doing the first door, didn't want to mess it up. All rounded out as hell.

Dremeled a straight slot into the useless torx bolt heads, tried to soak in PB, heated it with a torch an got onto it with a hammer impact driver. There all stuck.

My question, if I grind access through the back of the door to get at the other side, are there bolt heads there or are those torx screwed into something that I am not going to be able to get a grip on, or be able to cut away to release the hinge? How is the hinge attached on the backside of it?
Thrown in the towell today, haven't even taken the doorskin off to look at what the inside panel entails, any thoughts would be appreciated.

.......i've tried before and never had any luck with the extractor method, think it's all thread locked with paint anyway.
 
Drill the heads off. A 5/16 bit should pop the heads right off, but stop then, do not try to drill the shanks out, that is 1/4 inch IIRC. Once you get the hinges out, you will be avl to work on the shanks and back them out.

If you run into it again, use quality bits and an impact driver. Bits can be too hard and snap or cut the torx recess out. Apex is a good brand or torx bit.
 
If you can find them, you might try left handed drill bits for the drilling. I can't always get them when I need them, but about half the time, the bit grabs and breaks the screw loose and backs it out before the head comes off.
 
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I have removed hundreds of corroded screws with one of these. They give you more control than a regular impact driver. An air hammer or rivet gun drives it.
 
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