Lead cast vs. FMJ in 9mm and 45

[flyingfrog509]

So far all I've loaded is FMJ for both my .45 and the kids 9mm.

I know it is pretty easy to go with cast lead for .45...just keep the speed down and leading keeps to a min.

Can this be done in 9mm? In 9mm I've been loading 115 FMJ. However I've seen the cast bullets for 9mm are quite a bit less expensive if bought in quantities of 2 or 3 thousand like at http://www.missouribullet.com/index.php

I'm assuming stick with RN bullets. BUT what is the best weight to go with and target speed out the barrel? Currently shooting a 5" 9mm barrel in a 1911.

Still new to pistol loads and most of what we are shooting is IDPA and target.

Would love some suggestions in both 45 & 9mm from some of you guys that make or use cast.

 

[mtgldr]

Been using 125gr rn in my 5" M&P 9mm, I bought it from ga arms at a show for $55/1000. I was worried about the lead but so far 500+ rds and no lead issues. I follow up every so often with fmj and then run about 20 at the end. Any lead that's left comes out with a 5 min soak of Pro Shot cleaner with no additional effort. Barrel looks like new. Just run fmj every 50 or so rounds and it doesn't build up. My .02

 

[rbstern]

You can actually push a lead bullet pretty fast with the right powder and lube. I have some 357 mag rifle loads, with plain base lead bullets that will trot along at 2000fps out of 20" barrel, without leading the bore.

There are a variety of other factors to take into consideration. Issues most likely to give you leading in 9mm:

- Too high pressures
- Poor bullet-to-bore fit
- Barrel isn't clean (copper and lead deposits)
- Barrel isn't machined smooth

If you load cast bullets in 9mm, stick with starting loads, and even less than starting loads. You'll have to experiement to see what works. Make sure you start with a clean barrel. A barrel roughed up with copper deposits will show leading with a load that might have shot problem free with a clean barrel. I've had better luck with 125 grain and higher weight bullets, rather than lighter bullets.

Also, a good investment: The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. It will pay for itself many times over by reducing wasted experimentation.

 

[Chuckdog]

Properly cast bullets work great without issue. The bullets need to be hard enough for use in the intended caliber/velocity range. The harder bullets may raise pressures in some older low pressure rounds like the 45 Colt. Match the hardness to the application, along with following the above advice on cleaning your bore well before shooting cast bullets, and you'll have great results with cast bullets. Cast is all I shoot in my target pistols. Lead fouling isn't a problem at all. I've pushed cast bullets down the tubes of 44 mag and 454 Casull revolvers at extreme velocities without leading following the above methods. The only real downside to lead is the extra smoke created. It smokes up the pistol and your hands, but it wipes right off. My definition of dirty powder, is powder that doesn't burn effectively when fired. I loved the accuracy and wide applications for Unique, but I would be freckled everytime I'd shoot when I used it. Little flakes and dots all over me and my clothes. I started using W231/HP38 because it metered so much better, and I didn't get freckled. A friend told me about Universal, how it had all the good qualities of Unique, yet it wasn't a flaked powder, and it didn't leave you and your stuff freckled. I still use HP38, but I buy Universal in bulk now. I use it to shoot cast bullets in all my selfloaders, except the .40 S&W. I also load 38 special and 45 Colt revolver rounds with it.