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Lee Bulge Buster Kit for 45 ACP

I purchased the bulge buster specifically for the 40 S&W cases. I had been having some "light hammer strikes" in striker fired pistols. Thought maybe the bulge was causing it. Finally swapped to Federal primers and that fixed the light strike issue.

However, I still use the kit anyway on 40. Many didn't affect feeding, just didn't like the look of the slight bulges you often see on that brass. I feel like a uniform sized case will be more reliable in the long run. No doubt it does even up the rim on cases when ran through it also. Can't recall ever using it on 45 acp as I have never noticed any bulge on them. I just started using it on 10mm's just for uniformity. I have also used it on 380 acp and I found out you can use the 380 acp factory crimp die and the bulge buster on .223 brass. Sometimes you have a bulge on it near the base and it will knock that bulge off that the full length size die couldn't reach. They are dimensionally close enough to work in this instance.

The bulge buster kit will only work on straight walled rimless automatic pistol cases. It will not work on 9mm or other tapered pistol cartridges. Do not attempt to use it on the 9mm as it may jam in your die and will definitely deform your brass. I tried it once before it dawned on me it wouldn't work on tapered cases.

Rosewood
 
Brass is so cheap...if it dont fit. Toss it. U have to fix alot to recover 10 bucks when brass runs 3 cents

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Hmm, I wouldn't walk past 3 pennies laying on the ground without picking them up. Same goes for brass...

If the brass is serviceable, I am going to use it. Once I deem it unsafe or beyond repair, I toss it in the scrap brass box.
 
Hmm, I wouldn't walk past 3 pennies laying on the ground without picking them up. Same goes for brass...

If the brass is serviceable, I am going to use it. Once I deem it unsafe or beyond repair, I toss it in the scrap brass box.
Buying the buster for 10 bucks to save 3 cents makes no cents. Out of 1000 i reload...i toss 5. I would have to toss 333...or load iver 60,000 rounds before i make the 10 bucks back. It cannot be justified.

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Buying the buster for 10 bucks to save 3 cents makes no cents. Out of 1000 i reload...i toss 5. I would have to toss 333...or load iver 60,000 rounds before i make the 10 bucks back. It cannot be justified.

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
But it's not the cost of the brass. Unless the brass is bulged unsafe you don't really know the issue until at the least it is sized. If you run a progressive like most do for 9 you don't know until the round is made. So then you can either throw away the round, which is more like 10c now or run it though the bb.

It is also much different for those who reload to plink at the range vs those who compete. I don't do matches that often, when I do I have different ammo boxes for my uspsa ammo. Every case gets run through the bulge buster. One bad case and a stage is done for and it tends to affect you the rest of the match.

BTW you can do 9mm but it requires a 9 makarov fcd. It will only contact the bottom of the case. You cannot do any rimmed rounds like 38.

I guess if you pushed them hard enough it would just make 38sc?
 
I just started using it on 10mm's just for uniformity. I have also used it on 380 acp and I found out you can use the 380 acp factory crimp die and the bulge buster on .223 brass. Sometimes you have a bulge on it near the base and it will knock that bulge off that the full length size die couldn't reach. They are dimensionally close enough to work in this instance.

Rosewood

Hi, Rosewood -

Thanks for your comments on using the 380 FCD in bulge buster mode for the 223. I'd never heard that before. So, I just learned something new.

When you use the 380 bulge buster for 223, do you add any lube to the 223 case to pass it through the 380 FCD carbide ring? Or no? I think the 380 is a just a couple of thousanths narrower than the 223.

Thanks -

Bayou
 
You should always lube .223 brass, it is very prone to sticking during any resize process, so I always lube it. It may be fine without, but I wouldn't risk it. I was looking hard to figure out a way to do it, so I started measuring and found out the .380 is within a couple of thousandths the dimension of the .223. Did some reading and found others had done it so I tried it and it worked fine.
 
Since I began reloading, I have discovered it isn't an exact science. Reloaders for years have been modifying dies, wildcatting rounds and making all kinds of tools to process and load their brass to their individual needs. You have to be safe in what you do, but there is a lot of things you can use for something it wasn't originally "designed" for. You really need to understand the entire reloading process, like why each step is done that way. This usually takes years of reloading. Then you learn to modify the procedures to your needs.

I do not have a set of dies for my MEC to reload .410 shells (about $75 for a set). Found out my Dillon 45 acp sizer die will resize the base of the 410 shell by removing the decapper assembly. I knock out the primer with a 3/8" bolt with a nail welded on the end of it. Used a 3/8" roll pin in the hull to seat the primer with a rubber hammer. Add powder, wad and shot. I then place a overshot wad made from a piece of cardboard I cut out with a hole punch and put a dab of elmers school glue over it. Of course, when you change the reload manuals data (i.e. using over shot card in lieu of fold crimp), I stayed well below max to prevent any pressure issues. Voila, I have a reloaded .410 shell that works great in my single shot .410. And I spent about 3 bucks on additional parts over what I already had.

Rosewood
 
I purchased the bulge buster specifically for the 40 S&W cases. I had been having some "light hammer strikes" in striker fired pistols. Thought maybe the bulge was causing it. Finally swapped to Federal primers and that fixed the light strike issue.

However, I still use the kit anyway on 40. Many didn't affect feeding, just didn't like the look of the slight bulges you often see on that brass. I feel like a uniform sized case will be more reliable in the long run. No doubt it does even up the rim on cases when ran through it also. Can't recall ever using it on 45 acp as I have never noticed any bulge on them. I just started using it on 10mm's just for uniformity. I have also used it on 380 acp and I found out you can use the 380 acp factory crimp die and the bulge buster on .223 brass. Sometimes you have a bulge on it near the base and it will knock that bulge off that the full length size die couldn't reach. They are dimensionally close enough to work in this instance.

The bulge buster kit will only work on straight walled rimless automatic pistol cases. It will not work on 9mm or other tapered pistol cartridges. Do not attempt to use it on the 9mm as it may jam in your die and will definitely deform your brass. I tried it once before it dawned on me it wouldn't work on tapered cases.

Rosewood


Lee modifies a 9 mm MAK die to use for 9 mmx19 it's a special order item and you have to call them.

http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/reloading-9mm-pearls.315678/#post-1701634

Link in above thread broke?

Good link: http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/the-dreaded-9mm-bulge.233048/
 
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