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Might be the best $430 out the door I’ve spent in a long time.

And....
The click of that safety coming off can have a quieting effect on people hassling you.
I've tapped the beavertail grip safety under my coat at a gas pump one night, and the gentleman harassing me for a dolla' to get home, understood... similar to racking the slide on a 12, err'body knows that one too.
 
I agree. They are better built with better steel than anything coming out of the Philippines, IE: Rock Island, ATI, Charles Daly etc, and at a better price.
As James Gregory would say " Ahhh DAAAYUMN!" Here I'm is with not one but two RIA 1911s. Got a full size 10mm and a full size in 9mm. Yeah I know that a 1911 in 9mm is just plain wrong but I got outta 45 when I traded my ATI in 45 for the 10mm. I just assumed that after all these years them Flips...I mean indigenous personal down in the Philippines know how to assemble 1911s.
 
My understanding is that the frame and slide are made from forgings. The small parts are likely machined from stock. I don’t think they do MIM. Just about all the sub $1,000 1911s and some in the $1,500 range in the US are made with MIM parts and castings. Ruger has done a great job with castings but the jury is still out on MIM. To me it’s amazing that TISAS can offer this pistol produced using early 20th century methods which are labor intensive and expensive for such a low price. I’n addition the final machining is held to very good tolerances. All the ones I’ve had exhibited good slide to frame and barrel fit. It’s no wonder they shoot so accurately for their price. Not sure how they’ll hold out for thousands of rounds. All the ones I’ve bought have been WWII replicas. These are great looking guns but just like the original Colts and contract guns suck to shoot with the microscopic sights and the GI grip safety. I’ve shot mine no more than about 500 rounds.
Springfield, Tisas USA, Remington Enhanced, Smith & Wesson and Taurus all have forged frames and slides. I am not sure about Ruger. Anyone one of those guns have loads of potential if you know how to modify them. Springfields are great right out of the box and probably my favorite sub 1,000 1911. I have owned 6 or 7 and not one had a single issue.

Anyone of those guns can be solid performers but make sure to check slide to frame fitment ( just work the gun and check for play between frame and slide ) before you sign the dotted line. Also check the trigger and make sure you allot funds for a trigger job If you like a perfect trigger.

It's the 300 and 400 dollar guns that tend to be cast. On those guns most ( other than the Tank Commander pick )tend to have rough cast parts on the outside. The external parts won't be nice with refined worked parts like the more expensive 1911s ( 700 dollar and up options ). I have held Tisas guns and they have good entry guns around the 499 to 600 mark with better care taken on external aesthetics but handle it before purchase just to make sure there are no surprises. Any lower cost 1911 should be inspected before purchase because they may have looser specs and can feel sloppy in the hands. In fact I like to inspect any sub 1,000 1911 before I take it home. You never know when one QC inspector had a tree crack rock lunch and let a some sloppy ones through afterwards. 😁

I have to say though that the Tisas guns look good for the money.
 
Well, I did it. I'm officially a "poor" now!

I own a TISAS Stakeout (pick it up tomorrow) in 9mm and 38 Super. Stainless steel with a satin nickel finish, nice wood grips. In the original box with both barrels. Under $400 OTD with enough money left out of the 4 to buy a nice dinner.
 
If Tisas would put out a Hi-Power clone, of this same quality and price range, I bet they'd be a big seller. Seems like a no-brainer to me, so I'd be interested to know what obstacles there might be to doing this, if anyone knows.
 
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