I fill the gap tween the bump on the barrel and the block with a credit card or something else of the proper thickness, then I spin the block, then I use the same card again to check the alignment.
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Need some help with my 300BO build
- Thread starter Bushwhacker
- Start date
If you have a gas block with double set screws on the bottom one of the screws will align with the gas port. As Plinker66 said shim till the hole aligns perfectly then just spin 180’. Should be perfect then.
Matthew 10:34 "Do not think that I came to bring peace on earth, I did not come to bring peace but a sword"
Matthew 10:34 "Do not think that I came to bring peace on earth, I did not come to bring peace but a sword"
I never knew John Denver built guns
Not all gas blocks are machined with provisions for an end cap, hence the importance of having a proper barrel dimple indexed off the gas port to allow the gas block to be aligned as it should.
ETA: forgot to mention, not all AR barrels have a gas block shoulder to reference either furthering the importance of a properly drilled dimple.
I just (re)aligned the gas block. I spaced off the profile cut with a credit card as suggested. I'll try that. If that works I'll have it dimpled and reapply loctite to set screws. It does have 2 set screws on the bottom but not sure how to verify if they bisect the gas port or not
Anyway it's a 10.3" Daniel Defense CHF barrel. Love the barrel, just need it dimpled.
Anyway it's a 10.3" Daniel Defense CHF barrel. Love the barrel, just need it dimpled.
Snap cap in the chamber and blown in the muzzle end with the BCG out. You should be able to hear/feel and have somewhat decent flow if it’s close to aligned.
Gas ports should be .295” from the shoulder if applicable. Gas port in the gas block will be around twice the diameter of the gas port to allow for tolerance stacking or and subtle variation in installation.
Simple math with the depth portion of a set of calipers can tell you if it was machined with a provision for an endcap without a dimple jig.
Gas ports are drilled being indexed off the barrel alignment pin. So, if you see it aligned with that and know if it’s provisioned to accept and endcap, you can get it pretty close for now until you get it dimpled.
Also, SLR dimple jigs are around $25 and a 5/32 jobber bit from Brownells is just a couple bucks. So for less than $30, you can dimple the barrel yourself, which takes all the measuring and guess work out of the equation. Only need a vice and handrill. Also, go slow so you don’t drill too deep. Easy to check progress as you go with their jig.
ETA: as probably understood already, the dimple and proper set screws used in conjunction with 272 Loctite provides for a robust install that will not come loose pending you installed it correctly.
Cough cough FU cough cough
