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New CZ striker fired P10C

Put another 100 down range with mine yesterday. Extremely accurate at 7 yards. So I worked on my 25 yd shots, tho I continue to need work on that distance, I was very pleased with my hits.

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I purchased the HBi flat face trigger, installed it and had issues with the trigger safety not disengaging. I sent an email to them about it and got this response. I'm going to give it another shot when the replacement arrives but I'm very pleased with their handing of the situation:

"Thank you so much for reaching out to us and for running out parts on your P10. What you are describing actually never came up in development, and none of our test shooters ever made note of the safety failing to disengage while shooting under any conditions. However, you are not the first customer to provide this feedback. We actually have had one other customer find exactly as you did with the inner trigger safety not disengaging. Almost word for word what your email below stated about our trigger safety not disengaging for him when the factory trigger would have.



The good and bad news is that we have been selling these P10 triggers faster than we can make them. 99% of customers are VERY happy with the triggers.



We have also learned of several “configurations” or “build variations” for the P10 from CZ that apply to models already in the field, as well as coming in the future. We believe that this is where our current 1% of unhappy customers above is coming from. And, if not addressed now, that number may grow as CZ continues to import.



So, in an effort to get out ahead of CZ-UB/USA and also increase our machining efficiency, we made new fixtures and at the same time we have made a couple physical changes to our trigger. We have an alternate inner trigger design that retracts faster and allows slightly more clearance to the frame (there is a molding “gate” there, the factory guns are starting to show plastic flashing in that area and it is only going to get worse as the molds wear over time).



What I would like to do is have us send you another trigger, lead time is approximately 10 days. If you would be agreeable to that, we would be honored. If not, we are also happy to issue you a complete refund for the trigger that you have now. You paid for a drop in trigger, not something that needs to be fit to your frame in order to work correctly. Again, we would be honored to have the opportunity to ship you another trigger and get your feedback.



Regardless of your choice, we are going to stand behind you 100%. Please just let us know what you would like to do."



-Phil



HBindustries.net



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IMG_1841.PNG
I purchased the HBi flat face trigger, installed it and had issues with the trigger safety not disengaging. I sent an email to them about it and got this response. I'm going to give it another shot when the replacement arrives but I'm very pleased with their handing of the situation:

"Thank you so much for reaching out to us and for running out parts on your P10. What you are describing actually never came up in development, and none of our test shooters ever made note of the safety failing to disengage while shooting under any conditions. However, you are not the first customer to provide this feedback. We actually have had one other customer find exactly as you did with the inner trigger safety not disengaging. Almost word for word what your email below stated about our trigger safety not disengaging for him when the factory trigger would have.



The good and bad news is that we have been selling these P10 triggers faster than we can make them. 99% of customers are VERY happy with the triggers.



We have also learned of several “configurations” or “build variations” for the P10 from CZ that apply to models already in the field, as well as coming in the future. We believe that this is where our current 1% of unhappy customers above is coming from. And, if not addressed now, that number may grow as CZ continues to import.



So, in an effort to get out ahead of CZ-UB/USA and also increase our machining efficiency, we made new fixtures and at the same time we have made a couple physical changes to our trigger. We have an alternate inner trigger design that retracts faster and allows slightly more clearance to the frame (there is a molding “gate” there, the factory guns are starting to show plastic flashing in that area and it is only going to get worse as the molds wear over time).



What I would like to do is have us send you another trigger, lead time is approximately 10 days. If you would be agreeable to that, we would be honored. If not, we are also happy to issue you a complete refund for the trigger that you have now. You paid for a drop in trigger, not something that needs to be fit to your frame in order to work correctly. Again, we would be honored to have the opportunity to ship you another trigger and get your feedback.



Regardless of your choice, we are going to stand behind you 100%. Please just let us know what you would like to do."



-Phil



HBindustries.net



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Well that's some good honest customer service! I've been thinking about this trigger from them
 
HB is one hell of a company and I've spent more than I want to admit with them. I have installed that trigger in my P10c with zero issues, but I did have to file a little bit of the polymer where the safety contacts. The original trigger worked fine when I used the center of the pad of my finger, but sometimes slightly caught if I used the joint of my finger. I bought the theta thinking it would remedy the issue, but it did the same thing. This thing feels like a million bucks now, especially with the 3.5# spring.

V__DC42.JPG
 
HB is one hell of a company and I've spent more than I want to admit with them. I have installed that trigger in my P10c with zero issues, but I did have to file a little bit of the polymer where the safety contacts. The original trigger worked fine when I used the center of the pad of my finger, but sometimes slightly caught if I used the joint of my finger. I bought the theta thinking it would remedy the issue, but it did the same thing. This thing feels like a million bucks now, especially with the 3.5# spring.

View attachment 1321945

Yes, same problem I had. I can see where the flashing gate he referenced in the email is on my particular frame. I had to pull perfectly with the pad to get it to work, the problem is, I always use a lot of finger and pull dead center from the joint, so it wouldn't work 75% of the time. Pulling from the joint gets the best squeeze from my personal hand mechanics, it shows up that way on everything from lasers to dry fire systems and even on my MantisX. I can't argue with the data. I put the 3.5lb spring in as well and it is pulling on the meter at 3 lbs 14 oz every single time. Very consistent.
 
Yes, same problem I had. I can see where the flashing gate he referenced in the email is on my particular frame. I had to pull perfectly with the pad to get it to work, the problem is, I always use a lot of finger and pull dead center from the joint, so it wouldn't work 75% of the time. Pulling from the joint gets the best squeeze from my personal hand mechanics, it shows up that way on everything from lasers to dry fire systems and even on my MantisX. I can't argue with the data. I put the 3.5lb spring in as well and it is pulling on the meter at 3 lbs 14 oz every single time. Very consistent.

It's honestly an easy fix. I just used a very fine file, then a bit of Emory cloth to smooth. Just giving it between 1/32-1/64" more clearance on the frame did the trick. Takes more time to disassemble everything than to do it. I removed the mag release to make sure I didn't nick it and also polished the contact points of it.
 
It's honestly an easy fix. I just used a very fine file, then a bit of Emory cloth to smooth. Just giving it between 1/32-1/64" more clearance on the frame did the trick. Takes more time to disassemble everything than to do it. I removed the mag release to make sure I didn't nick it and also polished the contact points of it.
I was going to go the other way and file the back of the trigger safety instead of going at the frame, but either way would have worked. I took an emory board to where the trigger pivot pin goes to eliminate that slightly scratchy feel that the matte finish on the trigger gave. I really hope someone comes out with a sear that eliminates the slight roll before the break, it would be close to perfect then.

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