*** New to suppressors - need tips/tricks/suggestions/etc ***

[RHelton10]

Hey guys, recently got an AAC Tirant 9 and I've been reading up on proper usage and all but just looking for some real-world tips and suggestions. Smart asses need not reply - I'm looking for real, actual, helpful information here.

So my current setup is the can with both the 1/2x28" and the 13x1LH pistons just in case I end up with that thread pitch. I do have the piston spacer so I can use it on fixed barrels as well. Right now I am also using it to shoot 300BLK (subsonic only and a barrel threaded 1/2x28" so no adapter needed) and .22LR but eventually plan to get a dedicated 22 can so I don't keep pumping loose lead into this one.

Here's my questions and kind of where I want this thread to go:

1. Keeping it tight: I've noticed it sometimes becomes a little loose after shooting a couple magazines, especially from a floating barrel like a Glock. Have you guys ever tried using a lock washer or something that would put tension against the can to keep it from backing off? Does it work? I've read to just tighten the hell out of it with no grease or anything on the threads but that makes it a little more difficult to swap hosts back and forth in the range, especially when its hot as hell. Which leads me to question 2...

2. Hot cans: Do you guys just carry gloves with you to the range? Just sit it down until it cools off? Have a wrap or cover that goes around the can? What works best for you? Ideally I'd like to be able to shoot a couple magazines from one gun, take the can off, put it on another host, shoot a couple mags through it, etc. I'm the type of guy that likes to take 5-6 guns with me to the range and put around 100 rounds through each while I'm there. Just trying to find a quicker way to transition from one gun to the next. Gloves seem like the most obvious way to go but shooting gloves are thin and don't help, thick heat protection gloves (like welding gloves) are way too thick to shoot with...have you found a balance in-between?

3. Cleaning: Oh yes, the question that always comes up. My baffles are aluminum with a steel blast baffle, so I know I can't just soak them. Is it ok to use a bore foam? Does it help? Dumb question, but are you guys that are using bore foam just spraying it into the can or taking the baffles out and coating them outside the can? If you're spraying it while they're in the can, are you taking them out afterwards and cleaning with a brush, just spraying them off with another product and/or water, or just walking away and not touching it afterwards at all? What else works for you? Do you even clean it at all?? I've read where some never do and claim that you don't need to.

4. Coating: So I don't even know the legalities of this one but have any of you ever coated and/or painted your cans? I know the serial number would have to be taped off first, but I was wondering if a high-heat undercoating type of material would make it easier to tighten / loosen the can as it gives better traction. I've read that plastic-dip can be applied to value covers and exhaust tips without a problem but not sure if it would stand up to the suppressor temps of shooting 22, 9, and 300blk. Thoughts?

 

[WC1911guy]

Interesting questions. In for answers.

 

[Laces_Out_Marino]

Interesting questions. In for answers.

^^^x2

 

[GreenPanther]

Subscribed.

 

[Lazarus]

1) Just have to keep in mind to tight it every so often. I would not use any type of washer or threadlocker, teflon tape, etc.

2) I always have gloves but you might one to invest in a can cover. I got a free one from Jake (QRF) if I'm not mistaken. Its rubber and not sure how well it'll protect my hand since I haven't used it yet.

3) You don't want a totally clean can as the lead buildup will help with the sound. @sovietak474u swears by something called Fireclean I'm going to be checking that stuff out myself.

4) I don't know about the coating.

Wanna sell me your 13.5 piston?

 

[hamburglar3]

Here is what I have experienced:
1. Every time I point the muzzle down, i twist the can tight by reflex.
2. When i need it, i find the "ove glove" works really well
3. Use the ultrasonic on my non-aluminum baffles. I am playing around with frog lube as a build up preventative
4. never had the desire

 

[batoncolle]

1. There are two areas for tightening. For the can itself (endcaps), I just keep it hand tight, and eventually the buildup will do the work. For the barrel threads, I add a little Blue Loctite, and once the again the build up will eventually do the work. Don't use any type of lock washer.
2. Ove glove or if you want to look a little cooler, get the Gorilla Glove.
3. Smear the baffles in Bore Butter (used to clean black powder guns so it works), and when the time comes just wipe the can down or knock off the residue. If you want to get a little more anal with the cleaning, you can soak it in acetone or synthetic Gun Scrubber, but I rarely find it to be necessary as long as I clean on a regular basis.
4. Some people cerakote their cans, but I have never done it.

 

[RHelton10]

1. There are two areas for tightening. For the can itself (endcaps), I just keep it hand tight, and eventually the buildup will do the work. For the barrel threads, I add a little Blue Loctite, and once the again the build up will eventually do the work. Don't use any type of lock washer.
2. Ove glove or if you want to look a little cooler, get the Gorilla Glove.
3. Smear the baffles in Bore Butter (used to clean black powder guns so it works), and when the time comes just wipe the can down or knock off the residue. If you want to get a little more anal with the cleaning, you can soak it in acetone or synthetic Gun Scrubber, but I rarely find it to be necessary as long as I clean on a regular basis.
4. Some people cerakote their cans, but I have never done it.

I've heard of using Blue Loctite but was afraid it would build up and junk up the threads. I guess it would just start peeling up and falling off after awhile?

I'll check out the Gorilla Glove and Bore Butter - thanks!

 

[batoncolle]

I've heard of using Blue Loctite but was afraid it would build up and junk up the threads. I guess it would just start peeling up and falling off after awhile?

I'll check out the Gorilla Glove and Bore Butter - thanks!

Yeah it wears off eventually because it won't hold up to high heat, and by that time the build-up should be holding it on. It's a lot less messy than using Teflon tape which will also work.

 

[Twitch2120]

1. High temp o rings. They squish into the thread relief, allow proper alignment. many rounds out of an fnp and a sl xdm. No issues. Just make sure it's a high temp oring. I used a regular black one at first. Molten rubber smells bad.

2. Oven mitts, suppressor covers like a tab gear or carry a bottle of water. The water can be poured inside to shoot wet bit also poured over the outside and inside to cool.

3. Don't own aluminum anything so...idk

4. Should already be cerakoted. The engraving is required to be a certain depth. As long as it's deep enough rattlecan to your hearts content. If worried, tape off the SN. no biggie