Will be happy to.... Cost is $24 plus $4...I will by in midtown today...
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Nickle Boron bolt carrier seller on ebay
- Thread starter Hasselhoss
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Will be happy to.... Cost is $24 plus $4...I will by in midtown today...
Yes it is. If you don't, it will eventually loosen.
I mentioned earlier in the thread that I can stake these for folks if they will cover shipping both ways. Easiest way to handle it is to buy the return shipping label and include it with the carrier when you send it to me.
ok webicknell...I'll be in your area (north Gwinnett) tomorrow...maybe Sunday as well
I saw this on another forum and found this interesting...
"I purchased a Young Manufacturing carrier and as many of you probably know they do not stake their gas key and state that if you do stake it, it voids the warranty on the gas key. I have not got my build complete yet so now rounds down range, but my question is should I just stake it anyways?
If you are unfamiliar with YM here is the statement on the website about not staking.
"There has been a lot of talk about the pros and cons of staking the gas key on the carrier. Here is our opinion and why Young Manufacturing will not stake keys. We have been making carriers since 1991. The US Mil Spec. assembly drawing requires the carrier key to be staked. Contrary to some popular opinions staking does not “SEAL” the gas key. Staking keeps the screws from backing out Period. If you do not properly torque the screws to 56 inch pounds you will be staking a screw that is loose or one that is over torqued and prone to breakage. We have seen plenty of staked screws that are loose or broken. The Mil Spec. also calls for the gas key bottom surface to be “SEALED” with Permatex gasket sealer. Something no one does to our knowledge. Here is our procedure for installing a gas key. First clean the oil from the gas key and the mating surface on the carrier. Then clean the oil from the screw threads. We use break cleaner for this. Next use a very light coating of Permatex high strength thread locker gel on the bottom of the key. PN 27010. This is much easier to use than the Permatex gasket sealer. It comes in a plastic twist dispenser. Make sure you don’t use so much that it squishes into the gas port hole. The cure rate is 60 minutes. Next coat the screw threads with the same gel. Install the key and torque the screws to 56 inch pounds. Should you decide to remove the key for some reason don’t use the old screws when you put the key back on! You will most likely break them during installation or when you fire the rifle. Go to the local hardware store and buy new 10-32 x ¼” SHCS. If you feel the need to stake the screws spend the money and get one of the staking tools from Brownell that uses a screw type system to swedge the material into the top of the screw. Don’t use a hammer and a punch! You can stretch the thread on the screw and now you have a loose screw that will eventually break if the gun even fires. We will not warrantee a carrier with a staked key no matter who staked it. You will be charged for a new key and any labor required to remove broken screws.Good Shooting!
Daniel H Young
President""
"I purchased a Young Manufacturing carrier and as many of you probably know they do not stake their gas key and state that if you do stake it, it voids the warranty on the gas key. I have not got my build complete yet so now rounds down range, but my question is should I just stake it anyways?
If you are unfamiliar with YM here is the statement on the website about not staking.
"There has been a lot of talk about the pros and cons of staking the gas key on the carrier. Here is our opinion and why Young Manufacturing will not stake keys. We have been making carriers since 1991. The US Mil Spec. assembly drawing requires the carrier key to be staked. Contrary to some popular opinions staking does not “SEAL” the gas key. Staking keeps the screws from backing out Period. If you do not properly torque the screws to 56 inch pounds you will be staking a screw that is loose or one that is over torqued and prone to breakage. We have seen plenty of staked screws that are loose or broken. The Mil Spec. also calls for the gas key bottom surface to be “SEALED” with Permatex gasket sealer. Something no one does to our knowledge. Here is our procedure for installing a gas key. First clean the oil from the gas key and the mating surface on the carrier. Then clean the oil from the screw threads. We use break cleaner for this. Next use a very light coating of Permatex high strength thread locker gel on the bottom of the key. PN 27010. This is much easier to use than the Permatex gasket sealer. It comes in a plastic twist dispenser. Make sure you don’t use so much that it squishes into the gas port hole. The cure rate is 60 minutes. Next coat the screw threads with the same gel. Install the key and torque the screws to 56 inch pounds. Should you decide to remove the key for some reason don’t use the old screws when you put the key back on! You will most likely break them during installation or when you fire the rifle. Go to the local hardware store and buy new 10-32 x ¼” SHCS. If you feel the need to stake the screws spend the money and get one of the staking tools from Brownell that uses a screw type system to swedge the material into the top of the screw. Don’t use a hammer and a punch! You can stretch the thread on the screw and now you have a loose screw that will eventually break if the gun even fires. We will not warrantee a carrier with a staked key no matter who staked it. You will be charged for a new key and any labor required to remove broken screws.Good Shooting!
Daniel H Young
President""
Just saw your post...
I dont know...? I have also had Seekins folks tell me NOT to torque their barrel nut and not to use any anti seize compounds on the thread. Go figure
Here's my logic. I do not have a torque wrench and I do not have a staking tool. I tightened the screws to my liking and got a punch and hammer and staked the screws. I dabbed paint on the heads of the screws to make sure they wouldn't move and haven't had any problems. I don't think I'll have any problems either. Just my opinion.
I'm not sure about whacking it with a punch and hammer. I could see that cause issues or actually moving the key or screws.
I might try to run one not staked.
Never had a problem using a punch. Regardless of what some of the pros on here say, as long as metal is displaced to the point that it touches the knurling on the screws it is adequately staked. It's not going anywhere.
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