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Problems changing rotors and pads on Lincoln Versailles rear disc conversion

brake caliper showing bracket.jpg
pass rear caliper piston face.jpg
 
Rear brake calipers might not collapse, with e-brakes they need to be screwed in and adjusted that way. I believe you can’t collapse them much with a c-clamp. Look inside the piston where the pad sits and see if there are little bumps like where a wrench sits. We used to use a large pair of channel locks to screw it back in.

I went and rented a tool from Autozone that is made for screwing these damn things in. I have been working on cars since I was a teenager and this is the first time I have come across pistons that screw in. I tried the tool and nothing, it won't budge or it's already in as far as it will go. New rotors won't slide between the new pads.

If I buy a kit I'll have to cut the brackets off my axles. Nothing is ever easy!

This is exactly how I feel right now!

 
That black dust boot around the Piston looks separated from the caliper housing.
If you force the piston further back in, it will probably cut down the internal o rings previously mentioned on the internal corrosion from where the piston has never been retracted that far ever.
(Also the same reason not to bottom out the brake pedal when bleeding)
 
I went and rented a tool from Autozone that is made for screwing these damn things in. I have been working on cars since I was a teenager and this is the first time I have come across pistons that screw in. I tried the tool and nothing, it won't budge or it's already in as far as it will go. New rotors won't slide between the new pads.

If I buy a kit I'll have to cut the brackets off my axles. Nothing is ever easy!

This is exactly how I feel right now!


Sorry to hear this!

@the video, anyone who has a sack has been there before lmao
 
I would rebuild the caliper before I did any cutting.
Unhook the caliper and put an air gun on the bleeder to pop out the piston, hone the crust from the inside and the piston. (I would do this conservatively by hand)
New o riing and dust boot. back in business.
 
Did you release the lever for the e-brake, if not, it won’t go. Same as the star adjuster for drum brakes, allows travel in-one direction but not the other. (This all internal to the caliber)
Look for the cable where the e-brake attaches and push it in the other direction. If it won’t move, then it’s frozen, but it should work when released.
 
Rear brake calipers might not collapse, with e-brakes they need to be screwed in and adjusted that way. I believe you can’t collapse them much with a c-clamp. Look inside the piston where the pad sits and see if there are little bumps like where a wrench sits. We used to use a large pair of channel locks to screw it back in.


Right, I think some of the Mustangs, '95 maybe, had rear pistons that had to be screwed in - they make a special tool to do that with.
 
Did you release the lever for the e-brake, if not, it won’t go. Same as the star adjuster for drum brakes, allows travel in-one direction but not the other. (This all internal to the caliber)
Look for the cable where the e-brake attaches and push it in the other direction. If it won’t move, then it’s frozen, but it should work when released.

No emergency brake in this truck.
 
In that case, I would put a little pressure on the piston to make it come out about 1/2 inch. Loosen the bleeder and I believe turn the piston clock wise with the wrench and put pressure driving it back into the caliber. If that doesn’t work do over and go counter clock wise. That should pick up the 1/4 inch you need. If it doesn’t rebuild it, new o rings and seals, about 3-4 bucks.
I believe these were internally clocked for e-brake.
 
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