Progressive reloaders

[noylj]

To me, only the following makes sense for loading bottleneck cases:
1) use a single-stage or Lee turret (with auto-indexing). You only need a sizing die and a seating die. You remove the case after sizing and you trim as needed. If you remove the case from a progressive, you have saved nothing and spent a LOT of money. While off the press, you can trim, prime, and do any another voodoo you think will help. I have spent almost 45 years completely happy with a Forster Co-Ax.
or
2) you get a Dillon 1050 that can swage primer pockets on the fly and you install a Dillon RT1500 trimmer/sizer so you can ACTUALLY get some advantage from a progressive press for bottleneck cases and the press seats EVERY primer the SAME. Then you can go to a bullet collator...

 

[Twitch2120]

If you FL size only what you need rather than following the die makers instructions the brass won't grow much. I size brass once and that's about it. If you really want to feel better buy a Sinclair case length gauge. I've found all 3 308s I've had to be considerably idiot proof in case length. Spec on 308 is 2.015 MAX iirc. All 3 guns measured out at 2.04+ haven't trimmed 308 in 5 yrs.

 

[SpeedyR]

usually as others have said I do two processes. prep and reloading for rifles. Here is my process for mil spec brass with crimped primers. you can remove or add steps depending upon your situation:

prep:
1) resize and remove primer on my RCBS single stage (if they are really dirty I might use a universal deprimer and tumble them in SS pins then lube/resize them).
2) trim to length, chamfer and debur with Frankford arsenal case prep machine.
3) swage the primer pocket (if LC brass) on an RCBS bench mounted swager.
4) tumble clean to remove lube and stuff (SS pins).

reload- just run them thru the 550 with the first step clear of any die. just use that to seat the primer, and the rest is the same as you would use for pistols or anything else.

 

[Teh Wicked]

I run a Dillon 550...Mainly for 223...

I purchase large lots of brass and prep lots of brass before I even get started loading. Valhalla distributing sells brass at great prices. I always opt for the Lake City brass so it basically all needs trimmed.

Here is my process...
FL Size and deprime the brass, remove from press, swage in the Dillon Super Swage, toss into a bulk container. Once I have processed all 1600 pieces, I will then setup my trimmer and begin the process of trimming it all down, which is by far the worst part of reloading.

Once all 1600 pieces are finished, I then wet tumble with stainless pins.

Once that's finished, I then setup the press to run progressive. It will take a few cases to get my recipe dialed into what im shooting, then I start rolling ammo. This is when the fruits of your labor come to life.

Im just north of Buford if you ever want to see it in action. Once you get that Dillon setup and dialed in, they are awesome.

 

[Greybeard]

You still have to prep the brass before reloading. As mentioned, pistol brass, especially straight wall stuff, is a no brainer because it usually doesn't require prep, especially if you are using carbide dies (and you should).

I still keep a single stage set up, because it's a lot easier checking seating depth, COAL, and all those things, I perfect my load on the single stage, then convert all the measurements to the Dillon.

Honestly, if your are going to just shoot a few, a single stage will load rifle rounds as fast a a Dillon if you count set up time.

^^^^^^^yep^^^^^
I do almost the exact same, straight wall pistol, no brainer, 650 Dillon is the way to go. However all work up is done on a single stage.
Rifle, well I more than likely make time up on my rockchucker, size, clean, trim, clean swag if necessary, easier to do on a single (any bottle neck cases).

 

[Clarke123]

I've got a Gracey Trimmer that makes case trimming less of a chore. Only use it for .308 and .223..

Depending upon the spot price on brass, I will often get "processed" brass that includes roll / full length resizing along with deprime / swagging and cleaning of primer pockets as well as the whole case, and trimming. If this amounts to just a few cents, it is wel worth it ... Still requires inspection and I always run it through the sizing die to assure success!

Otherwise: I skip the Spa Treatment for brass; just a simple overnight Citric Acid Bath with some Low Suds Detergent after
sizing and deprime (I had a pin tumbler and found it to be too much work for too little gain) Keep in mind that 30 years ago, people would question your sanity if you talked about polishing your brass ... Heck, it's ammo, not jewelry!

 

[f250superduty]

if you are loading 9mm on a 650 and the brass is already primed and flared for the bullet/ do you skip the first stages. dont use any primers or sizing die? i got a 650 coming and the brass is ready for powder.

 

[gh1950]

You don't have to load the primer feed.

I set the sizing die to where I want it to be. If the cases are prepped it won't make any difference and you won't have to fiddle with it when you go back to reload the same brass.

The key is to encouraging repeatability and eliminate unnecessary and duplicative effort. The whole theory of the Dillon 650 is "set it and forget it"

 

[Greybeard]

If you are confident hat the brass was size correctly, back the sizer off and don't load Any primers, set powder die where you want and go. However I would still go through the motion of priming just to get in the habit.

 

[f250superduty]

thanks