Question for the S&W folks

[switchride]

I bought a S&W 686 on here about a month ago and was planning to trade it for another similar gun with a round butt frame to match the grips on my 617 in .22lr. When I met to trade the other member asked about the cylinder moving to the back of the gun when it is flipped out and said that it wasn't normal. I felt like an idiot because when I took it to the range, it fired great so I just assumed that is what the cylinder did on all revolvers.

I'm attaching pictures of what is going on and I was hoping some of you who are far more familiar with revolvers than I am could offer up some insight. I tried to get a few angles but let me know if a different picture would be better to troubleshoot it. If it is broken I'm just wondering what part I should be looking for and if it will be a DIY fix. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Falcon1]

@Leatherhead @JWC Are the resident Smith experts round here.

 

[jeep78]

He was referring to something he read on the internet......endshake.

Except he doesn't know what it is or how to measure it.

It is measured in lockup, not with the cylinder released from the frame. Vert doubtful yours has a problem. If you are concerned, go to the S&W forum and you can see where and how to measure it and what the spec is.

 

[switchride]

So the cylinder moving to the rear when the plunger is depressed is normal for this particular model?

 

[Fish Fry]

Looks like the cylinder release scew is loose or incorrect? If I see the pictures correctly , it should only come our that far when the screw is disengaged.

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[CQB27]

So the cylinder moving to the rear when the plunger is depressed is normal for this particular model?

No it’s not. In your second pic, see that frame lug below the cylinder release and forward of the S&W logo? The frame lug is there to prevent the cylinder from traveling rearward when its open. Your cylinder is jumping over it in pic one, and is in it’s normal position in pic two. The frame lug looks like it’s permanently machined into the receiver, but it’s not. It can be punched out (or maybe it’s threaded and screws out, I can’t remember) and replaced if need be, although that might not be necessary.

This issue has nothing to do with end shake by the way. As the poster above said, tighten the cylinder release retainer screw...but not too tight... google is your friend on this one.

 

[jeep78]

Put my glasses on, oops. Yup, not right but not serious. The lug is replaceable if need be, but check that the crane and cylinder attachment parts are in order and the cylinder doesn't wobble on the support shaft. The engagement surface for the rear stop isn't very robust, could be worn or polished off till it is too short.

 

[WyldeDime]

Turn your gun over. Do you see this screw on the frame between the trigger and cylinder? Tighten that carefully.

 

[switchride]

Thanks for the responses everyone, the member I was trading with pointed out the issue once he got home. It is what you all are saying but I am not sure that screw is going to help. It's tightened about as far as I can get it without it starting to deform with any more pressure. Looking at the gun in this pic below the part that looks like it should catch the cylinder has been ground down. At least the gun still functions perfectly, I just have to apply slight forward pressure when I push the plunger. It would still be nice to fix if it wasn't a big investment.

I see CQB mentions it isn't part of the frame, although it really does look like it. Any idea if that part can be bought separately?

 

[Fish Fry]

It is possible that someone took the screws out of the sideplate and reinstalled them in the wrong position. The cylinder is held in ever so slightly by the proper length screw riding in the groove - might want to check the other two screws to see if they accomplish the mission installed in that position.

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