this was the wild cherry freshly cut. its got some awesome grain to it forsure.
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question for wood workers
- Thread starter seanc770
- Start date
my friend told me to use shellac ? any feedback on that y'all ?
Briwax has always treated me well and seems to repel water better than everything I else I have tried.
Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin
I see a naked lady standing and facing left with one really nice breast exposed. You can even see the neck line above that. Also, a mushroom tat on her left hip/thigh.
It's my favorite finish. Easy to apply, easy to fix mistakes, looks awesome. Zinser Bullseye Amber Shellac is my favorite.
BUT...it has an Achilles heel: Alcohol. That's the solvent used for shellac. If it's for a table where alcohol may spill, there will always be a danger of marring the finish.
Don't use oil under poly. You can blend oil and oil based poly, but I wouldn't do it on a nice piece of cherry.
Shellac is a good sealer, and it will work. Plus it's pretty idiot proof (don't take that personally
). If you've ever seen Bullseye, that's shellac. What;'s nice about shellac is because it's solvent is alcohol, it will dry quickly so you can sand and reapply multiple times in a short period. rbstern is right on about staining - any alcohol like from a drink makes a nasty stain. Stain on cherry may give blotchy results. All the pretty figure comes from different density woods.
@antique41 is right on about bar top finish. It's ready available (don't know where the bold came from??).
Worse thing about a bold piece of cherry is that that bright color will fade over time, and there's not a whole lot you can do about it. That's why really old cherry furniture has a pretty even color.
When finishing furniture or wood counter tops, I've always used Waterlox. It's a blend of natural tree oils and really makes the color and grain pop, as well as provide a tough coating. Rule of thumb is once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the remainder of its life. I scuff sand with 320 grit between initial coats. I've never had a top come back to me with this method, and many of the large wood top manufacturers also use the same or similar process.
I see Joey Ramon looking to the right with a booger hanging out of his nose. Good luck with your project. The last cherry slabs I cut sat in my shed for 10 years before I finally used them for firewood.
I used minwax classic gray stain then sanded it down after it dried a couple days.
I sanded it to make sure the woodgrain popped.
From there I used a few coats of minwax poly Clear wiped on and sanded and steel sanded between coats with 220 grit and steel wool.
Lastly I used two coats of some high gloss Watco clear poly
Rubbed on with a rag and it's mirror finish.
The grain is beautiful.
I'm gonna do a small test piece after it dries to the point where the poly has no smell any longer then use a buffing pad with polishing compound on my random orbital sander.
Some guys use the pumice powder and or wet sanding before polishing but it's only recommended if you have multiple coats of poly.
