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Reloading 9mm Pearls

A buddy and I have been reloading other calibers for years and are about to jump into 9mm. Thanks for taking the time to put this stuff out there for everyone to read & learn!!

See that lead in Glock's is bad, what about cz75's?

what kind of powders do yall prefer and have you had success with?

Thanks guys! All your input is much appreciated!!

Your CZ is conventionally rifled is it not?

Using lead cast is claimed to be an issue with polygonal rifling (Glock, HK and others). If you have conventional rifling then no worries. I have researched this claim and best as I can tell the pressures recorded in a special testing barrel that measures PSI were above recommended pressure levels when shooting lead.

HK put out lead could be shot but the cleaning frequency should be every 250 rounds.

Checking fired cases for excess pressure signs is more of a SWAG and will never be as accurate as a test fixture barrel.

I have used several powders Bulls Eye, Win 231, AA #2, #5 and #7. I prefer a ball type powder that meters well and is consistent per every charge. Flake powders like Bulls Eye were a PITA for small cases like the 9mm. Win 231 was fine and yielded good results. AA#2 is very economical but easy to double charge and possibly miss it. AA#2/Win 231 are faster powders and I have in the past had issues (function) with fast powders, polymer frame gun (Glock 17) and 115 grain bullets. My understanding is the power pulse is very short and high. I and one of my reloading buds tried more powder in the case/increased neck tension and although it helped, it was not the cure. We went to 124 grain bullets and the issue resolved.

AA#5 is very versatile and it's my choice for sub-sonic 124-147 grain loadings. I like AA#7 for performance 9mm loadings.
 
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Your CZ is conventionally rifled is it not?

Not using lead cast is claimed to be an issue with polygonal rifling (Glock, HK and others). If you have conventional rifling then no worries. I have researched this claim and best as I can tell the pressures recorded in a special testing barrel that measures PSI were above recommended pressure levels when shooting lead.

HK put out lead could be shot but the cleaning frequency should be every 250 rounds.

Checking fired cases for excess pressure signs is more of a SWAG and will never be as accurate as a test fixture barrel.

I have used several powders Bulls Eye, Win 231, AA #2, #5 and #7. I prefer a ball type powder that meters well and is consistent per every charge. Flake powders like Bulls Eye were a PITA for small cases like the 9mm. Win 231 was fine and yielded good results. AA#2 is very economical but easy to double charge and possibly miss it. AA#2/Win 231 are faster powders and I have in the past had issues (function) with fast powders, polymer frame gun (Glock 17) and 115 grain bullets. My understanding is the power pulse is very short and high. I and one of my reloading buds tried more powder in the case/increased neck tension and although it helped, it was not the cure. We went to 124 grain bullets and the issue resolved.

AA#5 is very versatile and it's my choice for sub-sonic 124-147 grain loadings. I like AA#7 for performance 9mm loadings.

Thanks so much!! Greatly appreciated!!
 
I shoot a lot of lead cast to save some coin at the range. Just wanted to note a difference between Missouri and GA Arms lead cast 125 grain round nose.

While loading 125 grain lead cast round nose sub-sonic target/range rounds I noted Ga Arms has a bit of a shoulder. This I think helps shooting as some of the Missouri bullet will contact the chamber area and inhibit smooth chambering. The lead will occasionally shave and the bullet lube will build up a tad and sometimes give an issue with smooth chambering. Most barrels it's not an issue but match grade barrels it presents an occasional problem.

So, I'll probably being sticking with GA Arms 125 grain round nose cast. I load just to the shoulder of the bullet.



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Personal experience only:
I have never had bullet lube interfere with chambering and all I shot for nearly 38 years have been cast lead bullets. However, a case mouth scrapping off even a little lead HAS caused stoppages.
Too many try for too small a case mouth flare and then don't spend the extra second to be sure the bullet is standing straight and doesn't tip during loading. You'll lose the case before the extra flare does any harm, so take care of the bullet first and make sure it is straight and concentric.
 
I know I don't shoot as much as most of you guys ... but

With the price of plated projectiles coming down, I have (mostly) switched over to plated for target / plinking (which eliminates a few "watch-its" associated with lead projectiles and associated barrel cleaning requirements).
 
Perhaps the single most useful thing I can pass along in my reloading experience is to get a case/chamber gauge and run your ammo through it. For my pistol stuff, I've got some EGW gauges and I run every round through it. Once I started doing this years ago, the few problems I had with shooting my reloads went away. A little QC makes a world of difference.
 
Perhaps the single most useful thing I can pass along in my reloading experience is to get a case/chamber gauge and run your ammo through it. For my pistol stuff, I've got some EGW gauges and I run every round through it. Once I started doing this years ago, the few problems I had with shooting my reloads went away. A little QC makes a world of difference.

Great advice and there is no substitute for good QA. It's more work but if taking a course, shooting a competition or if reloading your own SD rounds-something I think I will consider at least to have for the Zombie Apocalypse, it's a required step.


So, a tad bit more information.


As mentioned too little flare will scrape lead and deposit itself on the case lip often creating a failure to chamber properly. I scrape this off with a small pocket knife when QCing my rounds or if lazy (no QC) at the range when it fails.


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It only takes a tiny bit of lead to halt the process.


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Well enough on that.

Returning to an issue that cropped up with match grade barrels, factory barrels gobbled them all, I noted Missouri Bullet is sensitive to seating depth. A tad too long and it contacts the bore.

One can quickly determine this by simply dry marking the round and forcing it in the chamber. The contact points will be observed. The seating depth can be adjusted if needed as long as one doesn't compress a powder that is not to be compressed.


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Georgia arms sells a really well casted bullet and the mold design has a bit of a rebated shoulder on the bullet that if some cak shaves off it is less likely to be an issue. The bullet doesn't contact the bore on my match grade barrels like the Missouri bullet does.
 
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