Replacing Factory 1" Sling Loops on a 10/22

[6Bones]

So is it just as simple as cutting the 1" loops with a Dremel or are the loops connected inside the swivel base?

I checked the pin size of the replacement swivel with calipers and it appears the same as the 1" loop. Length of the pin seems ok too.

Anybody know for sure before I go cutting?

Thanks ODT.

 

[lexm41]

Yes cut the loop and run the proper size drill through the hole.

 

[6Bones]

Yes cut the loop and run the proper size drill through the hole.

Thanks for the reply!

Do you have to cut both sides or can you cut one and warp it to pull through?

Based on my caliper measurements the hole, provided it goes all the way through, should be ok...I think.

 

[lexm41]

Cut the loop and it will fall off. Then run the drill through to complete the hole. You should remove the part from the rifle.

 

[6Bones]

Cut the loop and it will fall off. Then run the drill through to complete the hole. You should remove the part from the rifle.

Roger that.

Thanks again.

 

[6Bones]

My only beef with the rifle is the non-removable loop and only 1" to boot. Guess I'll have it rectified soon enough.

 

[elmosdad]

Why not just screw 'em out and put some sling studs back in ?

 

[Kahrnut]

Why not just screw 'em out and put some sling studs back in ?

This, buy a new set of 1.25 swivels, in a kit, with studs(QD)

 

[6Bones]

Why not just screw 'em out and put some sling studs back in ?

This, buy a new set of 1.25 swivels, in a kit, with studs(QD)

I'm concerned that the QD mounts may not be as tight if I back them out and replace them. Right now they are rock solid.

 

[Kahrnut]

That's laminated wood. Hard as a rock. It's drilled with an industry standard step-drill bit. Uncle Mike's probably supplies the swivels to Ruger. If the new swivel turns in too far(not straight), back it out, drop in wood glue, reinsert, let rest 2 days. Or put the glue in on the first install.