Silver bullets

[MILSURP Collector]

It's easy enough to do, lots of folks do it with scrap. You can buy a "poor man's crucible" for $50, the MAP torch head and gas bottle are going to run about $60-$70. You'll want a surface capable of bearing that much heat to work on if needed. I'd use steel bullet molds only. Aluminum (Lee, Arsenal, etc.) molds will melt at about 1,200 degrees. Silver melts at about 1,700 degrees and steel is at about 2,200 - 2,500 degrees. Make certain you "smoke" the mold with a candle flame, get it black on the inside (with smut) before you pour otherwise the silver might not release.

Alchemy!

 

[BEREZKA]

You can use 3d printed jackets and a silver core to make accelerator rounds.

 

[Jack506]

In

 

[RiverBend]

I just shove pcs of ground up silver in them cavernous 44 mag hollow points, they still turn vamps into vape and zombies into mudheads.

 

[Timber Cruiser]

Interesting stuff palmettomoon

 

[BHPSteel]

Interesting point on 'smutting' the molds. I read *somewhere* that you could achieve the same effect by dusting the molds with graphite.

 

[Klif]

You will need a crucible for melting silver. I assume you are wanting to cast .999 fine silver for a bullet? Or, are you casting sterling (silver with 7.5% copper alloyed)? In any case, you'll need almost twice the high temp of a standard bullet smelting pot. I just thought of something else too. You'll need to get your bullet mold hot as hell so it'll fill correctly.

I cast lead soldiers, cannons and round ball for my pistols and it's a fact that you have to have the molds really hot to pour correctly, otherwise you get some portion of the item cast and it all has to go back in the pot. If you are going to get one of those melting pots that you heat with propane then you have to be pretty dang quick with the ladle to get it out of the pot and poured into the mold before it solidifies again.

Not a job for an amateur like me.

 

[Klif]

It's easy enough to do, lots of folks do it with scrap. You can buy a "poor man's crucible" for $50, the MAP torch head and gas bottle are going to run about $60-$70. You'll want a surface capable of bearing that much heat to work on if needed. I'd use steel bullet molds only. Aluminum (Lee, Arsenal, etc.) molds will melt at about 1,200 degrees. Silver melts at about 1,700 degrees and steel is at about 2,200 - 2,500 degrees. Make certain you "smoke" the mold with a candle flame, get it black on the inside (with smut) before you pour otherwise the silver might not release.

I have two different kinds of molds. Metal, most of my cannon models and round ball, and they have to be "sooted" well with a candle before you pour anything into them. The others are rubber molds and they have to be dusted with talc before you pour anything into them and they likewise have to be heated.

The whole process is a lot of fun but a lot of work. Most things come out of the mold with sprue attached and you have to take a dremel or small file to get it smooth. If you want fancy shiny silver bullets there might be a few extra steps in cleaning them up and making them shine nice.

YMMV

 

[Omega]

I love the odt

 

[Eggmanmja01]

I appreciate all the responses. It is not for me, but a friend so I will find out exactly what he is looking for in bullet size and weight.

More to follow