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So, AR15 guru's...

Is the barrel dimpled for a gas block, or drilled for a cross pin?

Did you actually measure the gas port? I measure the port on every barrel I get my hands on, instead of relying on what it’s advertised to be. All manufacturers make mistakes.

I have gas port alignment pin sets I use when installing gas blocks, to ensure they’re aligned properly.

Losing gas at the gas key on the BCG is another possibility.
 
Is the barrel dimpled for a gas block, or drilled for a cross pin?

Did you actually measure the gas port? I measure the port on every barrel I get my hands on, instead of relying on what it’s advertised to be. All manufacturers make mistakes.

I have gas port alignment pin sets I use when installing gas blocks, to ensure they’re aligned properly.

Losing gas at the gas key on the BCG is another possibility.

Do you use the HB plastic pin alignment tools or something else?
 
Is the barrel dimpled for a gas block, or drilled for a cross pin?

Did you actually measure the gas port? I measure the port on every barrel I get my hands on, instead of relying on what it’s advertised to be. All manufacturers make mistakes.

I have gas port alignment pin sets I use when installing gas blocks, to ensure they’re aligned properly.

Losing gas at the gas key on the BCG is another possibility.

It's not dimpled, it uses two large set screws with red loctite. It's what I have always done, perhaps not knowing any better.

And I didn't measure anything, again, just assuming that they are designed to just bolt on and go. It's never been a problem in the past so I never really gave it a second thought.

I am gonna run over to the shop and see what they found in a little bit. If they didn't find the issue, I will be going back over this thread and making a list of all the things to check for. I will pull the rail and inspect everything, remove and measure the block and gas holes with digital calipers and stuff... Heck, I could make a video of it all and put it on Youtube and you guys could watch it and see if you spot something, or point out something that I missed.
 
Calipers are not a good way to measure gas ports. Use drill bits instead. A set of numbered bits will do it for you.
 
It's not dimpled, it uses two large set screws with red loctite. It's what I have always done, perhaps not knowing any better.

And I didn't measure anything, again, just assuming that they are designed to just bolt on and go. It's never been a problem in the past so I never really gave it a second thought.

I am gonna run over to the shop and see what they found in a little bit. If they didn't find the issue, I will be going back over this thread and making a list of all the things to check for. I will pull the rail and inspect everything, remove and measure the block and gas holes with digital calipers and stuff... Heck, I could make a video of it all and put it on Youtube and you guys could watch it and see if you spot something, or point out something that I missed.

I’d recommend getting the barrel dimpled for the set screws, once you’re sure the gas block is properly aligned. I can do it for you for free, or you may be able to find someone around your neck of the woods that offers it.
 
I’d recommend getting the barrel dimpled for the set screws, once you’re sure the gas block is properly aligned. I can do it for you for free, or you may be able to find someone around your neck of the woods that offers it.
A proper dimple with a jig ensures proper alignment and helps to prevent the block from coming loose. And it if does come lose, the dimple is enough to hold the ports aligned enough to function for a while... unless the gun is right on the ragged edge of function (as yours seems to be).
 
Wouldn't dimples have to be for a specific gas block? I guess that once I put one on, I can use the set screws and test it out. If it functions properly then we could remove the block, see where the screws dug in a little and use that as a marker for where it needs to be dimpled?

But at that point, I would have to stick with that gas block, right?
 
Wouldn't dimples have to be for a specific gas block? I guess that once I put one on, I can use the set screws and test it out. If it functions properly then we could remove the block, see where the screws dug in a little and use that as a marker for where it needs to be dimpled?

But at that point, I would have to stick with that gas block, right?
Only for the front hole. The rear hole is always 180 opposite of the gas port.
 
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