Know what you want and what you are willing to pay and don't be an idiot bidding.
I have bought a couple times from Gun Broker, once on a high end gun. But I only bid on new guns. I also put in 1 price that I'm willing to pay, and which is what I think is fair. You can then have a pretty good idea what it sold for when they were available in a GS. I also like being the first bidder and letting someone chase my bid. That way you can tell who's legit and who's bidding it up to compare prices by looking at the bid history. If I get into a bidding war with someone I usually pass and let them have it when I hit my price. I have seen dealers pull the ad, and their excuse being either the gun has sold in their store, or there was an error in the listing. Doing that saves them from paying the site bid money. I also get the name of the place selling in case they do pull it. You can easily find the guy and call them to find that out, and maybe get the gun, if still available at your price because they don't have to pay the listing money. I did that once and instead of buying the one gun that was pulled, he had a sister gun, and I ended up buying both. If you look at the fine print below the listing you'll see most of the auctions have a disclaimer saying it's up for sale to the public. I do believe there are shills being used for bids, so you have to be wary and do what
GeauxLSU
recommended.
I have bought a couple times from Gun Broker, once on a high end gun. But I only bid on new guns. I also put in 1 price that I'm willing to pay, and which is what I think is fair. You can then have a pretty good idea what it sold for when they were available in a GS. I also like being the first bidder and letting someone chase my bid. That way you can tell who's legit and who's bidding it up to compare prices by looking at the bid history. If I get into a bidding war with someone I usually pass and let them have it when I hit my price. I have seen dealers pull the ad, and their excuse being either the gun has sold in their store, or there was an error in the listing. Doing that saves them from paying the site bid money. I also get the name of the place selling in case they do pull it. You can easily find the guy and call them to find that out, and maybe get the gun, if still available at your price because they don't have to pay the listing money. I did that once and instead of buying the one gun that was pulled, he had a sister gun, and I ended up buying both. If you look at the fine print below the listing you'll see most of the auctions have a disclaimer saying it's up for sale to the public. I do believe there are shills being used for bids, so you have to be wary and do what
GeauxLSU
recommended.
