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Summer food plots?

TheGman

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The Hen that laid the Golden Legos
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I have some clear cut land, replanted mostly but logging decks etc open. I plan to test spoil add lime and fertilizer as required

I am wondering @ planting warm season food plots

peas etc?

Might get scorched this summer I know


Experience or thoughts?
 
I have some clear cut land, replanted mostly but logging decks etc open. I plan to test spoil add lime and fertilizer as required

I am wondering @ planting warm season food plots

peas etc?

Might get scorched this summer I know


Experience or thoughts?

We do it every year.. It keeps the deer in the core of our 150 acres. Peas, soy beans... we try to time it for near Memorial Day and look at trying to time prior to a rain. We are overdue to have a dry summer scorcher...
 
Summer food plots they are going to hit some highs and lows.

One thing to keep in mind is that the animals are going to fed on the natural foods first, then on a food plot once they find it!

A consideration is the following, corn, millet closest to wood line, field peas, clay more peas inside of the field peas, cabbage, greens inside of that, and inside of that the remaining area clover the perennial
type.

This they will visit, however you now have an area the hawgs, will come to also.

This has worked well for us.

We now have a blend that is made for your property that is blended in MONTANA, WYOMING, it is planted in the fall and has rewarded us well they last till middle spring. ALL food plots are investments, investments take time for deer, and the main restraint is trigger pull. It takes time to grow them to maturity, it does not happen over night.

We have been doing this with 4 different properties, the word has gotten around and our neighboring
land owners have jumped on board also.

Seldom do we have to beg for members we have waiting lists. You have to have standards and not waver from them, no short cuts, and must have strict rules and do not allow short cuts.

SHORT CUTS, END UP IN SHORT PAY, AND QUICK FAILURE IN THE LONG RUN...
 
Summer food plots they are going to hit some highs and lows.

One thing to keep in mind is that the animals are going to fed on the natural foods first, then on a food plot once they find it!

A consideration is the following, corn, millet closest to wood line, field peas, clay more peas inside of the field peas, cabbage, greens inside of that, and inside of that the remaining area clover the perennial
type.

This they will visit, however you now have an area the hawgs, will come to also.

This has worked well for us.

We now have a blend that is made for your property that is blended in MONTANA, WYOMING, it is planted in the fall and has rewarded us well they last till middle spring. ALL food plots are investments, investments take time for deer, and the main restraint is trigger pull. It takes time to grow them to maturity, it does not happen over night.

We have been doing this with 4 different properties, the word has gotten around and our neighboring
land owners have jumped on board also.

Seldom do we have to beg for members we have waiting lists. You have to have standards and not waver from them, no short cuts, and must have strict rules and do not allow short cuts.

SHORT CUTS, END UP IN SHORT PAY, AND QUICK FAILURE IN THE LONG RUN...

I have had own my own land since 2005 and can attest, my boys and I do food plots twice a year. We consistently harvest above average bucks on our property. 3 landowners around us comprise the additional 500 + acres and we all manage the same way. The land behind ours is a 600 acre farm that plants corn and soybeans.. our land is a natural funnel to their property...

78DC252C-DAC0-4B23-94F7-0ACED93C9195.jpeg
 
I have some clear cut land, replanted mostly but logging decks etc open. I plan to test spoil add lime and fertilizer as required

I am wondering @ planting warm season food plots

peas etc?

Might get scorched this summer I know


Experience or thoughts?
Let me know an I'll help you for nothing more than hangn out an shootin the breeze ;0)
 
Let me know an I'll help you for nothing more than hangn out an shootin the breeze ;0)

Strongly consider using a SUB SOILER, to get down into the compacted soil, it will do several things for your soil,

Get down into to soil
Break up the soil
Allow water to get into the soil and not just set on top of it
Helps to allow your Harrows, really sink into and break the soil down more thoroughly

Keep this in mind when using a subsoiler, 1 subsoiler shank needs at least 12-15 HP of tractor to keep you going if your soil is compacted, or been logged over as that machinery is really hard on compacting your soil.

We use a 5 shank, subsoiler with our New Holland, and sometimes you do have to raise the shanks up
to get through some RED JAWJA BRICK CLAY DIRT. We continue working until we can pass through it
at a good quick click, and then bring in the Harrows to finish the job, your soil preparation is your key to success as much as quality seed, 19-19-19 fertilizer it will last for 8-12 rains and is a slow release, yes it costs more than the $4-$5 cheap and as low as 10-10-10 it is a one shot and done fertilizer, so spend a little more and reap a whole lot more also...

If you are not going to spend the time in soil prep, soil testing, quality seed, and quality fertilizer just do not even start the job, save your money,

1/2 effort, short cut fertilizer, cheap seed,1/2 effort does not produce 1/2 results, it will not produce any results just a big mess, and you will not be happy at ALL!!!

good luck in your food plot quest, wishing you the best, in making your soil the best producing investment you have ever worked before...

just consider strongly, ponder, and strongly consider...
 
Strongly consider using a SUB SOILER, to get down into the compacted soil, it will do several things for your soil,

Get down into to soil
Break up the soil
Allow water to get into the soil and not just set on top of it
Helps to allow your Harrows, really sink into and break the soil down more thoroughly

Keep this in mind when using a subsoiler, 1 subsoiler shank needs at least 12-15 HP of tractor to keep you going if your soil is compacted, or been logged over as that machinery is really hard on compacting your soil.

We use a 5 shank, subsoiler with our New Holland, and sometimes you do have to raise the shanks up
to get through some RED JAWJA BRICK CLAY DIRT. We continue working until we can pass through it
at a good quick click, and then bring in the Harrows to finish the job, your soil preparation is your key to success as much as quality seed, 19-19-19 fertilizer it will last for 8-12 rains and is a slow release, yes it costs more than the $4-$5 cheap and as low as 10-10-10 it is a one shot and done fertilizer, so spend a little more and reap a whole lot more also...

If you are not going to spend the time in soil prep, soil testing, quality seed, and quality fertilizer just do not even start the job, save your money,

1/2 effort, short cut fertilizer, cheap seed,1/2 effort does not produce 1/2 results, it will not produce any results just a big mess, and you will not be happy at ALL!!!

good luck in your food plot quest, wishing you the best, in making your soil the best producing investment you have ever worked before...

just consider strongly, ponder, and strongly consider...


GOOD POINTS
 
I have some clear cut land, replanted mostly but logging decks etc open. I plan to test spoil add lime and fertilizer as required

I am wondering @ planting warm season food plots

peas etc?

Might get scorched this summer I know


Experience or thoughts?

What size open area are we talking about here? 2-4acres, 5-10 acreas?
 
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